Collector Guides
Collecting from Japan raises the same questions again and again. Is it genuine? What does this condition note mean? Will it work at home? What will customs charge? These guides answer them, category by category, with the same care we give the pieces themselves.
Buying with confidence
- Authenticity and Condition: how every piece is examined, and our guarantee.
- Authenticating Japanese Art and Collections: boxes, seals, certificates and provenance.
- Japanese Condition Ranks Explained: N, S, SA, A, B and C, and the words behind them.
- Import Duties on Luxury Goods from Japan: what to expect at your border.
- Payments, Shipping and Handling for High-Value Pieces
- Importing Large, Heavy or High-Value Pieces
- Documentation as Value: why boxes, tags and papers matter.
- A Concierge Is Not a Proxy
- Questions and Answers
Maison pieces and jewellery
- Why Japan Is the World's Finest Market for Pre-owned Luxury
- Louis Vuitton and Chanel: Date Codes, Serials and Microchips
- Louis Vuitton Canvases and Leathers
- Vintage Louis Vuitton Bags: Speedy, Keepall, Noé and Alma
- Caring for Vintage Louis Vuitton
- Louis Vuitton and Takashi Murakami, 2003 to 2015
- Louis Vuitton: A Documentary in Chapters, 1854 to Today: the whole house in reading order.
- The Trunk-Maker's Century: the Vuitton family, 1821 to 1977.
- Five Creative Directors: Jacobs, Jones, Ghesquière, Abloh and Pharrell.
- Art on the Monogram: artist collaborations, 2001 to 2023.
- Louis Vuitton and Japan: a long correspondence in trunks and art.
- Louis Vuitton and Stephen Sprouse: Graffiti and Roses, 2001 to 2009
- Antique Louis Vuitton Trunks
- Hermès Date Stamps Explained
- Hermès Leathers Explained
- Kelly or Birkin?
- Hermès Exotic Skins
- Hermès Silk Scarves: The Carré
- Hermès Rodeo Charms, Chaîne d'Ancre and Small Treasures
- The Chanel Classic Flap
- Vintage Chanel Jewellery: Marks and Eras
- Vintage Gucci: Bamboo and Horsebit
- Gucci's Modern Classics: Ophidia, GG Marmont, Blondie and Horsebit 1955
- Lady Dior and the Book Tote
- The Dior Saddle Bag
- The Fendi Baguette
- Bottega Veneta Intrecciato
- Goyard and Goyardine Canvas
- The Valentino Rockstud
- Designer Wallets: Zippy, Continental, Compact and Card Case
- Designer Sunglasses: Cartier, Chanel and Others
- Cartier: Love, Juste un Clou and the Tank
- Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra
- Bvlgari Serpenti and B.zero1
- Tiffany Silver: Hallmarks and Eras
- Chrome Hearts Silver
- Japanese Gold and Platinum Marks
- Mikimoto and the Akoya Pearl
- Pearls Explained: Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian and Freshwater
Rooms by model
Each room gathers every piece we hold from one design family, with its guide alongside.
- Gucci GG Marmont
- Gucci Ophidia
- Gucci Blondie
- Gucci Horsebit 1955
- Gucci G-Timeless Watches
- Hermès Rodeo Charms
- Valentino Rockstud
- Lady Dior
- Dior Book Tote
- Designer Wallets
- Designer Sunglasses
- Collectible Watches
Watches
- Collectible Watches from Japan: Vintage and Modern References
- Buying a Watch from Japan: Originality, Service and Papers
- What Makes a Full Set?
- Rolex Reference Numbers Explained
- Rolex Serial Numbers and Production Years
- The Rolex Submariner
- Omega Speedmaster
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
- Patek Philippe: Calatrava, Nautilus and Aquanaut
- The Breitling Navitimer
- Gucci Watches: G-Timeless and the Swiss Years
- Grand Seiko and Credor
- King Seiko and Grand Seiko: The 1960s Rivalry
- Vintage Seiko Divers
- The Seiko 6139
- Seiko Astron: The First Quartz Wristwatch
- Vintage Citizen Watches
- G-Shock
- The Rise of Japanese Independent Horology
Art, prints and painting
- Japanese Contemporary Art: A Collector's Primer
- Japanese Artists by Era: A Collector's Directory
- Collecting Murakami, Kusama and Nara Prints
- Collecting Takashi Murakami
- Murakami's Flowers
- Yayoi Kusama
- Yoshitomo Nara
- Tadanori Yokoo
- Keiichi Tanaami
- Hiroshi Nagai
- Kohei Nawa
- Hajime Sorayama
- Ukiyo-e: Woodblock Prints and the Floating World
- Hokusai's Great Wave
- Hiroshige: The Tōkaidō and Edo
- Utamaro
- Kuniyoshi
- Yoshitoshi
- Shin-hanga Woodblock Prints
- Sōsaku-hanga
- Framing Japanese Prints
- Japanese Paintings and Art
- Reading Signatures and Seals on Paintings
- Nihonga Materials
- Hanging Scrolls and Folding Screens
- Upcoming Japanese Artists
- Shunga and Hidden Arts
Buddhist and sacred art
- Buddhist Statues and Sacred Art: the Archive
- How to Buy Buddhist Statues Safely
- How to Read a Buddhist Statue
- Woods of the Buddha
- Gold on the Buddha: Gilt Surfaces
- Displaying a Buddhist Statue at Home
- What Is a Butsudan?
- Caring for a Butsudan
- Butsugu: Altar Implements
- The Kamidana
- Goshuin, Omamori and Ema
- The Ethics of Collecting Religious Objects
Ceramics and lacquer
- Why Collect Japanese Porcelain and Ceramics
- Imari Porcelain
- Kutani Ware
- Raku Ware
- Hagi Ware
- Karatsu Ware
- Shino and Oribe
- Bizen Ware
- Tea Bowl Shapes: A Glossary
- Kintsugi: The Art of Golden Repair
- Japanese Lacquer: Maki-e and Urushi
- Maki-e Fountain Pens
- Porcelain, Silver and Craft Materials
Tea, craft and the home
- Tea Ceremony and Chagama
- Tea Utensils: Caddies, Scoops and the Tea Room
- Tetsubin and Chagama: First Use and Lifelong Care
- The Tetsubin: Collecting Cast-Iron Kettles
- Netsuke, Inrō and Maki-e
- Kiseru and Tobacco Pouches
- Okimono and Jizai
- Meiji Bronzes
- Kōro: Incense Burners
- Ikebana Vases
- Bonsai Pots
- Suiseki: Viewing Stones
- Mingei and Folk Art
- Tansu and Traditional Furniture
- Japanese Appliances Abroad: Voltage, Frequency and Transformers
- Japanese Massage Chairs: Buying and Shipping
Dolls, masks and lucky charms
Samurai heritage
- Samurai Armour: Power, Protection and Authority
- Kabuto: Reading a Samurai Helmet
- Tsuba: Sword Guards
- Koshirae: Sword Mountings
- Buying a Japanese Sword: Registration, Papers and Export
Textiles and garments
- Kimono and Textile Heritage
- Kimono Types: From Furisode to Komon
- Obi: The Kimono Sash
- Boro: The Art of Mending
- Kanzashi: Hair Ornaments
- Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake Archives
- Kojima and Okayama Selvedge Denim
- Evisu and the Osaka Denim Revival
- Kapital
- Nigo and Human Made
- Japan-Only Sneakers
- Japanese Heritage Flight Jackets
- Sizing and Fitting Japanese Garments
- Caring for a Souvenir Jacket
- Yakuza and Bōsōzoku Clothing
The Fashionista Bible
The reading room for Japanese fashion, from the Ginza Ivy boys of 1964 to the Paris founders and the Tokyo street. Every chapter ends in a collection.
- The Fashionista Bible: the hub, with every essay in reading order.
- Visual Glossary: garments, fabrics and subcultures matched to photographs.
- A to Z Index: every label, designer and term.
- Encyclopedia: dated entries on designers, shops and eras.
- The History of Amekaji: Ivy, Heavy Duty and the reproduction makers.
- Popular Amekaji Brands: a dated directory of shops, makers and mills.
- The Pop Cool-ture Timeline: Takenoko, Harajuku, Shibuya and the Y2K street.
- Kenzo Takada: colour, print and a Tokyo cut in Paris.
- Issey Miyake: pleats, engineering and clothing as architecture.
- Hanae Mori: the butterfly of the Avenue Montaigne.
- Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons: the case against clothing.
- Yohji Yamamoto: black, silence and the cut.
- Y-3: Yohji Yamamoto, adidas and the sportswear avant-garde.
- Undercover: punk romanticism and emotional design.
- mastermind JAPAN: the skull and quiet power.
- visvim: a return to sacred making.
- A Bathing Ape and Harajuku: play as power.
- Ura-Harajuku: A Reader’s Guide to the Back Lanes and the Labels That Made Them: the back lanes behind Harajuku, nineteen labels in the order of their beginnings.
- The Fujiwara Orbit: Goodenough, AFFA and the Making of a Scene: a column, a record label, a T-shirt label and a shop.
- Neighborhood, WTAPS and the Militarisation of Streetwear: two Tokyo labels and the vocabulary of uniform.
- N.HOOLYWOOD and SOPHNET.: Two Houses of Considered Uniform: a vintage buyer’s house and a football club that does not exist.
- Rock, Print and Reverence: Hysteric Glamour, Number (N)ine and WACKO MARIA: three labels that wear their records on the outside.
- Stüssy: Surf Origins and the International Tribe: the surf mark and its tribe in Tokyo.
- Supreme in Japan: Six Doors and a Kinship with the Back Lanes: six Japanese doors and a quiet kinship.
- Ron Herman: California as Curated from Tokyo: a Los Angeles shop that Tokyo took up and later bought.
- Sacai: hybrid garments and Japanese duality.
- Junya Watanabe: technical radicalism.
- COTE MER: upcycled Japanese street couture.
- Japan in Paris: a chronology from Hanae Mori to Junya Watanabe.
- Contemporary Designers and Brands: the generation after the founders.
- Japanese Fashion as Design Philosophy and What Is Japanese Craft Philosophy?
Toys and pop culture
- Japanese Toys: Play, Design and Cultural Exchange
- Shōwa Tin Plate and Soft Vinyl
- Kaiju in Soft Vinyl: Marusan and Bullmark
- Jumbo Machinder
- Tokusatsu Heroes
- Anime Production Cels
- Life-Size Shop Figures
- Why Collect Sci-Fi Robots
Cameras and audio
- Japanese Rangefinders: Canon and Nikon
- The Nikon F
- Premium Compact Film Cameras
- Japanese Hi-Fi: Accuphase and Luxman
Motoring and sport
- Exporting a JDM Vehicle or Parts from Japan
- JDM Parts from Japan
- Japanese Golf Clubs: Honma, Miura and the Star Grades
- Buying Golf Equipment from Japan: A Guide for Beginners and Advanced Players
- Japanese Golf: clubs, bags, wear and accessories, arranged by type.
The Atlas of Japanese Golf
Thirteen articles on the makers, methods and shafts behind Japan's golf equipment, and why the world collects it. Every chapter ends in a room of clubs.
- The Atlas of Japanese Golf: the hub, with every chapter in reading order.
- Why Japan Became Golf's Great Workshop: the history and the craft towns.
- Mizuno and the Chuo Forge: feel as engineering.
- Miura Golf: a Himeji family forge.
- Epon and Endo: the forging house behind other names.
- Honma Golf: stars, gold and the Sakata workshop.
- XXIO, PRGR and Yonex: clubs built for ease and speed.
- Bridgestone, Srixon and Cleveland: Japan on tour.
- Onoff, Fourteen and Maruman: the boutique houses.
- Fujikura, Graphite Design, Mitsubishi and Nippon Shaft: the engine room.
- JDM Golf Clubs and the Rule Book: what non-conforming means.
- Japanese Golf Brands Compared: forging, faces and feel.
- Why the World Buys Japanese Golf Clubs: the buyer's case.
Playing golf in Japan
Nine guides for the visitor and the golfer who travels: the shape of the day, booking, cost, etiquette, courses, the calendar, onsen journeys, the makers’ road and a club finder.
- How to Play Golf in Japan: A Visitor's Field Guide: the pillar chapter: the shape of the day, from check-in to the bath.
- Which Japanese Golf Club Is Right for You: A Decision Matrix: seven questions, a decision matrix and a filterable chart of the makers.
- Finding and Booking a Golf Course in Japan: four ways in, how far ahead to book and which famous clubs take no visitors.
- What Golf Costs in Japan: Fees, Tax and Membership: reported fees side by side, the course-use tax and what membership costs.
- Japanese Golf Etiquette: Dress, Pace and the Bath: the locker key, the collar, pace and the bath: a short code of courtesies.
- Where to Play Golf in Japan: Regions and Celebrated Courses: access draws the map: regions and the celebrated courses a visitor may reach.
- The Japanese Golf Calendar: Seasons, Rain and Tournaments: the seasons, the rainy season by region and the tournament calendar.
- Golf and Onsen: Leisure Journeys Across Japan: six places where golf and hot springs meet, and what lies beyond the bath.
- Club Tours in Japan: Fitting Studios, Shops and Forges: fitting studios, shops and forges, and how the clubs travel home.
The Tokyo Atlas and the Kominka Café
Twelve chapters and a map: the neighbourhoods of Tokyo and Osaka where street culture, collecting and craft meet, and the old houses of the Kanto plain that now serve coffee. Every date and figure comes from a cited page, and where accounts differ the chapter says so.
- The Tokyo Atlas: A Reader’s Guide to the Capital and Its Counterpoint: the reader’s guide to the capital and its counterpoint.
- Harajuku: A Forest, a Station and the Invention of Youth: the forest, the station and the street.
- Shimokitazawa: The Town That Kept Its Small Theatres: small theatres, live houses and second-hand racks.
- Koenji: Punk, Patchwork and the Long Dance of August: a punk suburb, a patchwork trade and a dance in August.
- Nakano Broadway: A Luxury Mall That Became a Library of Obsessions: a luxury mall that became a library of obsessions.
- Ueno: Museums on the Hill and a Market Beneath the Tracks: museums on the hill and a market beneath the tracks.
- Shinsaibashi and Amerikamura: Osaka’s Bridge and Its American Village: the counterpoint: a canal bridge and an American village.
- Five Walks Through Tokyo and One Beyond It: five day routes and a sixth, to Kamakura.
- The Kominka Café: A Reader’s Atlas of Old Houses and New Coffee: old houses and new coffee, with the rules of the series.
- Old Tokyo East: Kayaba, Koguma and the Engawa Café: a milk bar, a pharmacy, a family house and a tenement.
- Kamakura and Hase: Four Houses Between the Hills and the Sea: four houses between the hills and the sea.
- How to Visit a Kominka Café: Hours, Shoes and Patience: hours, shoes and patience.
- The Kanto Kominka Café Map: two schematic maps and the cafés in rows, with what the map does not yet hold.
Reference tables
- Japanese Era Names: Dating Objects by Nengō
- Japanese Ring Sizes and International Conversions
- Japanese Shoe Sizes: Centimetres, US, UK and EU
- Traditional Japanese Measurements: Shaku, Sun, Monme and More
- The Japanese Zodiac and Sixty-Year Calendar
- Numerals and Dates on Japanese Boxes
- Glossary of Japanese Box Inscriptions
- Japanese Gift Customs: Noshi, Mizuhiki and Furoshiki
- Before You Buy: A Collector's Checklist
Directories of makers and brands
- Directory of Japanese Pottery Centres and Kilns
- Directory of Tetsubin Makers
- Directory of Showa Tin Toy Makers
- Directory of Woodblock Print Publishers
- Directory of Japanese Denim Brands
- Directory of Japanese Watch Brands
- Directory of Japanese Fashion Designers
- A to Z Index of Japanese Fashion
- Encyclopedia of Japanese Fashion
- Living National Treasures in Ceramics
- Directory of Japanese Golf Brands
Glossaries
- Visual Glossary of Japanese Fashion
- Glossary of Kimono Terms
- Glossary of Tosogu Sword Fittings
- Glossary of Samurai Armour
- Glossary of Tea Utensils
- Glossary of Lacquer Techniques
- Glossary of Japanese Ceramics Terms
- Traditional Japanese Colours
- Glossary of Watch Terms
- Glossary of Pre-owned Luxury Terms
- Glossary of Toy Terms
- Glossary of Anime Collectables
- Glossary of Washi Paper
- Glossary of Netsuke Terms
- Glossary of Buddhist Statue Terms
- Glossary of Ukiyo-e Print Terms
Care and keeping
- Caring for Kimono and Textiles
- Caring for Hanging Scrolls
- Caring for Lacquerware
- Caring for Ceramics
- Caring for Luxury Leather
- Caring for Tin Toys
- Caring for Silver Jewellery
Looking for the thinking behind these guides? Read The Japonista Thesis and explore The Japonista Universe.
Cannot find your question here? Write to the curator desk. We reply within one to three business days, and the best questions become the next guide.
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