Hermès Rodeo Charms, Chaîne d'Ancre and the House's Small Treasures
Hermès began as a harness maker in 1837, and its smaller pieces keep that saddlery in view: a leather horse in a riding blanket, a bracelet modelled on an anchor chain, a stud from a dog collar. They are made in the same workshops and to the same standards as the bags, and they are often the most direct way to own the house's craft.
The Rodeo charm
The Rodeo is a small horse cut from lambskin, wearing a contrasting saddle blanket and a leather mane, hung from a loop that fastens around a bag handle. It first appeared around 2013 and quickly became the most sought-after charm the house makes. Each season brings new colour combinations, named in the Hermès palette: Feu, Céleste and Bleu Izmir, Jaune d'Or, Rubis, Framboise and many more.
Sizes
- PM: about 8 × 7 cm. Suited to a Birkin 25 or a Kelly 25 or 28.
- MM: about 12 × 10 cm. Suited to a Kelly 32 or a Birkin or Kelly 35.
- GM: about 16 × 12 cm. Sized for large totes and travel bags.
A Birkin 30 can take either the PM or the MM, depending on how much you want the charm to show.
Variants
- Rodeo Pegase: the horse with wings, after Pegasus. Produced in smaller numbers than the plain Rodeo.
- Rodeo Touch: a version with a saddle in exotic skin.
What to check
The lambskin should be soft and evenly coloured, with no scuffing at the nose, ears and hooves, which touch the bag. The mane should be complete and the stitching tight. Charms that come with their orange box and ribbon are easier to give and to resell.
The Chaîne d'Ancre
In 1938 Robert Dumas, of the Hermès family and later the head of the house, drew a chain of oval links inspired by the anchor chains he saw on ships. The Chaîne d'Ancre has been made ever since, in sterling silver, yellow gold and rose gold, as bracelets, necklaces and rings. The Enchaînée versions interlink the links more closely. Silver pieces should carry the house name and a silver mark; look for crisp edges on the links and a toggle that closes firmly.
Collier de Chien
The Collier de Chien began in 1923 as a collar for a client's dog. Hermès adapted it as a woman's accessory a few years later and introduced bracelet versions in 1949. Its pyramid studs and central ring reappear across belts, bags and watches, and they inspired later designs such as the Rivale.
Clic H and the enamel bangles
Hermès launched its enamel bangles in 1976, decorated with designs taken from its silk scarves. The Clic H, from 2000, is named for the click of its hinged H as it opens and closes. It is made in a narrow and a wide version, each in two sizes, so check the size before you buy.
Kelly Double Tour
The Kelly Double Tour is a leather strap, most often in Swift calfskin, that wraps twice around the wrist and closes with a miniature version of the Kelly bag's turn-lock. Wrist size matters: the strap is made in several lengths, and a double wrap that is too loose slips around.
Dating and condition
Many Hermès leather pieces carry the house's year letter, which is read the same way as on a bag; see Hermès date stamps explained. Silver jewellery shows its age through softening of edges and fine scratches, both of which a jeweller can polish. Leather straps and charms should be kept away from water and perfume.
Why Japan
Japan has been one of Hermès's most devoted markets for decades, and its owners keep boxes, ribbons and pouches. Rodeo charms in particular are often bought, kept boxed and hardly used, which is why near-unused charms with their packaging appear there regularly.