Hermès Leathers Explained: Togo, Epsom, Box, Clemence and Swift
At Hermès, the leather is chosen before almost anything else. The same Kelly or Birkin can be rigid or supple, matte or glossy, scratch-proof or delicate, depending on the skin. Pre-owned Hermès in Japan spans decades of production, so collectors meet the full range. This guide describes the leathers seen most often.
Togo
A calfskin with a natural, pebbled grain, Togo is one of the house's most popular leathers. It is light, holds colour well, resists scratches and softens a little with use, so bags develop a relaxed shape. Look at the corners and handle bases for rubbing, and at the sides for slouching on larger bags.
Epsom
Epsom is calfskin with an embossed, regular grain pressed into it. It is stiff, lightweight and very resistant to scratches and water, and it holds a crisp structure, which suits Kelly bags and small leather goods. Its weakness is the corners, where the embossed surface can wear or crack after heavy use.
Box calf
The oldest of the house's bag leathers, Box is smooth, glazed calfskin with a deep shine. It scratches easily and marks with water, but it develops a beautiful patina, and many vintage Kelly bags in Japan are in Box. Collectors accept fine scratches as part of its character. Look for cracking at folds and handle edges.
Clemence
Taurillon Clemence comes from young bull calves. Its grain is larger and flatter than Togo, and it is heavier and softer, so bags drape and slouch. It is durable but can mark from pressure, and it is sensitive to water. Clemence suits relaxed, everyday shapes.
Swift
Smooth, fine-grained and supple, Swift takes colour vividly and has a soft sheen. It shows scratches more readily than Togo or Epsom, though light marks can often be rubbed out with a fingertip. It is a favourite for small bags and accessories.
Chèvre and others
Goatskin, sold as Chèvre or Chèvre Mysore, has a fine, tight grain and is very durable and light. Barenia, a saddle leather, ages like fine riding tack. Exotic skins, including crocodile, alligator, ostrich and lizard, are among the most valuable and need CITES documents for many destinations.
Reading a leather in a photograph
- Grain size: large and flat suggests Clemence; tight and regular suggests Epsom; medium and raised suggests Togo.
- Shine: a glassy surface suggests Box.
- Shape: a bag that holds sharp lines without stuffing is likely Epsom or Box.
The blind stamp inside the bag records the year of manufacture; read Hermès Date Stamps Explained.
Questions collectors ask
Which leather is the most practical?
Epsom and Togo for everyday use. Epsom keeps its shape; Togo hides scratches.
Is Box calf a poor choice because it scratches?
Not for collectors. Box is the classic leather and its patina is valued. It suits owners who enjoy a piece that shows its history.
Do exotic Hermès bags ship internationally?
Often, but with permits. Ask the curator desk about your destination before purchase.