Tiffany Silver: Hallmarks, Eras and the Return to Tiffany Line
For a generation of Japanese buyers, a small blue box was the gift of the moment. Tiffany & Co. silver sold in enormous numbers in Japan in the late 1980s and 1990s, and much of it has been kept with its pouches and boxes. That makes Japan a natural place to find vintage Tiffany silver, from simple chains to designer pieces now collected seriously.
Reading the marks
Tiffany silver is sterling, 92.5 per cent silver, and is marked accordingly. Common marks include T&Co, Tiffany & Co., 925 and Sterling, sometimes with the year of copyright and the designer's name. Older pieces may be marked Tiffany & Co. Makers Sterling. Marks should be crisp, evenly struck and correctly spelled. Soft, shallow or misspelled marks deserve a closer look.
Return to Tiffany
In 1969 Tiffany introduced a key ring engraved with a request to return it to the New York store, each with its own registration number. The idea grew into the Return to Tiffany line of tags, hearts and chains. Earlier pieces in the line are collected for their history, and the heart tag necklace became one of the most recognised pieces of jewellery of the 1990s.
The designers
- Elsa Peretti, who joined Tiffany in 1974, created organic forms such as the Bean, Open Heart and Bone Cuff. Her pieces are marked with her name.
- Paloma Picasso, who joined in 1980, brought bold, graphic designs such as Graffiti and Loving Heart.
- Jean Schlumberger designed for Tiffany from 1956, mostly in gold and gemstones.
Atlas and the 1837 line
The Atlas design takes its Roman numerals from the clock held by the figure of Atlas above the entrance of Tiffany's old Broadway store. The collection arrived in the mid-1990s and has been made ever since in bangles, open cuffs, rings, pendants and watches, in silver and in gold. The numerals should be crisply cut and evenly spaced; on open bangles, check that the ends sit level and the cuff keeps its shape.
The 1837 line, named for the year Tiffany was founded in New York, followed in the late 1990s, with the date and the house name engraved on plain bands, cuffs and padlocks.
Sizes from Japan
Rings bought in Japan are often described in Japanese sizes, which use a different scale from the US and UK. Our ring size reference gives the conversions. For bangles and cuffs, the inner circumference and the opening matter more than any size label, so check both.
Condition
- Tarnish is normal and removable with a silver cloth.
- Scratches and dents on hearts and tags are common and can be polished, though heavy polishing softens edges and engraving.
- Clasps should close firmly; check jump rings for wear.
- Box and pouch add appeal, particularly for gifts.
Care
Store silver in its pouch, away from rubber bands, wool and damp, all of which speed tarnish. Clean with a soft silver cloth. Avoid dips on pieces with oxidised or textured finishes, which are meant to stay dark.
Questions collectors ask
Is vintage Tiffany silver valuable?
Most pieces are valued as wearable jewellery. Designer pieces by Peretti and Picasso, and early Return to Tiffany items, are collected more seriously.
Can engraving be removed?
Light engraving can sometimes be polished out, at the cost of some metal. Many buyers accept it.
Why is there so much Tiffany silver in Japan?
Its popularity peaked in Japan during the 1980s and 1990s, and owners kept their pieces carefully.