Kimono Types: From Furisode to Komon
To Western eyes, every kimono can look formal. In Japan, the cut, pattern, fabric and number of crests tell you at once how formal a kimono is and when it should be worn. Learning these signals is the first step in collecting kimono, whether for wearing, display or study.
Formal kimono
- Furisode. Long, swinging sleeves and bold patterns across the whole robe. Traditionally worn by young unmarried women, today above all at coming-of-age ceremonies.
- Kurotomesode. Black silk with five family crests and a pattern only below the waist. The most formal kimono for married women, worn by close family at weddings.
- Irotomesode. The same form in a colour other than black, with one to five crests.
- Uchikake. A heavily decorated, padded outer robe worn by brides, left open without an obi. The all-white shiromuku is worn for the ceremony itself.
Semi-formal kimono
- Hōmongi. Visiting wear, with a pattern that flows uninterrupted across the seams, as if painted on one canvas.
- Tsukesage. Similar but simpler, with motifs placed so they face upright on the shoulders and sleeves.
- Iromuji. A single colour, often with a woven pattern in the silk and one crest. Favoured for the tea ceremony.
Everyday kimono
- Komon. A small, repeating pattern all over, for outings and casual wear.
- Tsumugi. Woven from slubbed silk threads. Casual by convention, yet some regional weaves are among the most expensive kimono made.
- Yukata. A light cotton robe for summer festivals and hot-spring inns.
- Haori. A jacket worn over a kimono, often with a beautifully patterned lining.
Fabrics and decoration
Silk crepe, chirimen, and silk damask, rinzu, are the classic grounds for dyed kimono. Yūzen dyeing uses rice-paste resist to draw fine, multicoloured pictures, with Kyoto and Kanazawa as its great centres. Shibori, tie-dyeing, can cover a whole robe in tiny raised dots. Embroidery and gold leaf add richness to the most formal pieces.
Buying a kimono
- Size. Ask for the length, mitake, and the sleeve reach from the centre back, yuki. Older kimono are often small for modern wearers.
- Stains and yellowing. Check the collar, cuffs and hem, and look for brown spots caused by age.
- Odour and mould. Kimono stored for decades in damp conditions can carry a musty smell that is hard to remove.
- Linings. Silk linings may be weaker than the outer fabric and can split.