Evisu
Chaqueta de mezclilla índigo Yamane EVISU Kyoto Evisuchou, lote 552, con tigre y dragón bordados, Asian Genes, talla 40
Chaqueta de mezclilla índigo Yamane EVISU Kyoto Evisuchou, lote 552, con tigre y dragón bordados, Asian Genes, talla 40
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An early Yamane / EVISU-era denim jacket that carries the sukajan into heavyweight indigo. A roaring tiger fills the back between Kyoto and Evisuchou lettering, two long dragons coil down the sleeves, and the neck label reads Yamane Lot 552 Asian Genes.
The Piece
This embroidered denim jacket translates the visual language of the Japanese sukajan into dark indigo cotton denim: part trucker jacket, part Yokosuka souvenir jacket, part tattoo flash, part Y2K streetwear artifact. The original neck label identifies it as YAMANE Lot 552 Asian Genes, and the Japanese care label confirms size 40, 100% cotton, made in China and distributed by Evisu Japan Co., Ltd. Another example of this exact Kyoto Evisuchou Dragon & Tiger embroidered denim design, also in size 40 and described as 1990s Yamane EVISU, is documented, confirming a recognized period model rather than an improvised custom piece.
Instead of reserving embroidery for one panel, the design expands across three zones. The back centerpiece is an enormous roaring tiger head in warm gold, tan, cream, pink and muted earth tones, mouth fully open over elongated fangs and a pink tongue, with exaggerated whiskers, fur radiating around the face and an almost kabuki-like emphasis around the eyes; "Kyōto" is embroidered above and "Evisuchou" below, in dusty pink, directly into the denim. Large dragons run down the left and right sleeves, following the vertical line of the arm in pale gold and cream thread with warmer red, peach and darker detailing around the heads, so the composition becomes more dynamic when worn and far more elaborate than the many EVISU jackets decorated only on chest or back.
The front is comparatively restrained: a smaller roaring tiger over one chest echoes the back, a flap utility pocket sits on the other, and slanted lower pockets keep the functional language of vintage work jackets. Approached from the front, the jacket looks almost conventional, then reveals itself from the side and rear. Against almost midnight-blue denim the gold and cream embroidery seems illuminated, with pink and red accents kept secondary, flamboyant without looking fluorescent; every fade and crease in the aging denim gives the imagery more depth.
Tiger and dragon are one of East Asian art's great oppositions, the dragon celestial, fluid and ascending, the tiger terrestrial force, courage and grounded power, often treated in Japanese decorative culture as complementary rivals. Here the tiger holds the back while the dragons occupy the sleeves, almost enclosing the wearer. EVISU was founded by Hidehiko Yamane in Osaka in 1991 and built its reputation on Japanese denim craftsmanship, bold graphics and its painted seagull; the Yamane name draws collectors to the founder-era design universe, with its older label designs, eccentric Japanese-English naming, less standardized graphics and designs seen in far smaller numbers than today's internationally distributed collections. EVISU still offers embroidery-led denim jackets today, but this older piece has the raw, less polished personality collectors seek in the archive.
Details
- Maker: YAMANE / EVISU-era; distributed by Evisu Japan Co., Ltd.
- Model: Lot 552, Kyoto Evisuchou Tiger & Dragon
- Line / Series: YAMANE "Asian Genes" label
- Era: Late 1990s to early 2000s (styling; no dated production code)
- Origin: Made in China
- Material: 100% cotton denim; embroidery thread; metal hardware; woven label
- Color: Dark indigo / washed navy, blue-black wash; gold, cream, pink and red embroidery
- Size: 40 (tag); cautiously around men's M–L depending on fit
- Measurements: Flat measurements of this jacket to be taken
- Construction: Trucker-style denim jacket; pointed shirt-style collar; front metal closure; chest flap pocket; slanted lower pockets; buttoned cuffs; straight waistband
- Motifs: Back: roaring tiger head with Kyōto and Evisuchou lettering. Sleeves: twin dragons. Front: smaller roaring tiger
- Label: YAMANE / LOT 552 / ASIAN GENES with winged creature, city skyline and Japanese-style crest; address No. 13 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong
Condition
- Vintage pre-owned denim with attractive natural character rather than an artificially pristine look; the extensive embroidery remains visually commanding.
- Possible age-related characteristics include natural indigo fading, surface abrasion, softened denim, subtle discoloration, thread movement, embroidery wear, hardware patina and minor marks from previous use.
- The photographs are an integral part of the condition description.
Sizing Guidance
The tagged 40 is the primary size designation until flat measurements of this jacket are taken; vintage Japanese sizing should not be converted to a Western size without them. A cautious reading places it around men's M to L.
For reference only, the separately documented size 40 example of this model measured approximately 20 in chest width, 25 in length and 18.5 in shoulder. Those figures belong to another jacket and are not guaranteed for this one.
Styling and Display
With sleeves and back already carrying so much, let the jacket lead: wide raw denim, engineer boots and a white tee; baggy jeans and retro sneakers; black denim, heavy boots and a band tee; faded jeans with work boots; or black trousers and minimal shoes. Hung or laid flat it reads as a denim tapestry in three stages, workwear front, dragon sleeves and tiger back.
Authenticity & Care
Neck label YAMANE Lot 552 Asian Genes (with No. 13 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong); Japanese care label: size 40, 100% cotton, made in China, distributed by Evisu Japan Co., Ltd. A separately documented size 40 example of the same Kyoto Evisuchou Dragon & Tiger model gives model-level support. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally.
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Yokosuka Archive
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