Hermès Ready-to-Wear: Silk Blousons, Bombers and the Saddler's Wardrobe

Hermès began in 1837 as a maker of harnesses for carriage horses, and its clothing still shows it: a saddler's attention to seams, a rider's idea of ease, and a refusal to put a logo where a detail will do. Menswear at the house was shaped for over three decades by Véronique Nichanian, whose collections gave the jacket a quiet, durable character. That reputation is why Hermès blousons are among the best-kept designer garments in Japan.

The jackets

• Reversible silk blousons. The house cuts jackets from the same silk twill as its scarves, printed with carré designs and lined with a plain colour so that the jacket reverses. The Mythologies des Hommes pieces and the gemstone-print Minéraux blouson are examples; see Hermès Silk Scarves: The Carré.
• Printed cotton bombers. Equestrian prints such as the Fantaisie d'Étriers stirrup design, harness prints and horse motifs on cotton or technical cloth.
• Leather-fronted bombers. Navy or khaki cotton with a calfskin front panel, zip pockets and rib trim.
• Teddy and padded blousons. Palefroi in cotton, and quilted silk pieces such as the Les Fêtes du Roi Soleil jacket.
• Cheval Punk and bandana pieces. Reversible bombers that play with the house's bandana prints.

Reading the label

A Hermès garment carries a care label with a style number, a colour code, the size in French numbers and the country of manufacture. Many of the printed pieces carry the name of the design. Match the number against the piece, and photograph the inside of the collar, which carries the brand. For leather goods the year-letter system is explained in Hermès date stamps explained; clothing uses the style number instead.

Sizing

The house cuts relaxed, with a flowing shoulder, and sizes in numbers that run in two-step intervals for men (44, 46, 48) and in even numbers for women (34, 36, 38). Take flat measurements; reversible and padded pieces vary with their linings.

Condition

• Silk bruises on the shoulders and at the pocket mouths. Check the silk lining at the armholes.
• Zip-off sleeves and snap fronts should work cleanly.
• Printed cotton fades at the cuffs and collar when it has been washed.
• Leather panels crease at the zip and need supple handling. See Caring for Luxury Leather.

Why Japan

Hermès opened in Japan in the 1970s, and it has been one of the house's most loyal markets ever since. Owners keep boxes, ribbons and garment bags, and treat a jacket as a lifetime purchase. The result is a supply of near-unused silk blousons that appear in Tokyo rather than elsewhere. The long argument is in Why Japan Is the World's Finest Market for Pre-owned Luxury.

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• Hermès · Designer jackets · Hermès Rodeo charms

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• Hermès Leathers Explained
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• Hermès Rodeo Charms and Small Treasures
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Index terms: hermes jacket mens · hermes silk blouson · hermes reversible jacket · hermes bomber · hermes mythologies des hommes · hermes fantaisie d'etriers · hermes ready to wear · hermes menswear pre-owned