Hermès Date Stamps Explained: Reading the Letter Inside the Bag

Inside almost every Hermès bag, usually on a strap or on the leather beneath the flap, is a small embossed mark: a letter, sometimes inside a circle or a square, often alongside other characters. Collectors call it the date stamp or blind stamp, "blind" because it is pressed into the leather without colour. It tells you when the bag was made, and with a little practice it tells you a good deal more.

This guide explains how the system works, lists the letters for recent decades, and shows how to use the stamp sensibly when buying a pre-owned bag in Japan or anywhere else.

How the system works

Hermès has marked its leather goods with a year letter since 1945. Each year is assigned a letter, and when the alphabet ran out the house added a shape around the letter to start a new cycle:

• 1945 to 1970: a letter alone.
• 1971 to 1996: a letter inside a circle.
• 1997 to 2014: a letter inside a square.
• From 2015: a letter alone again, now without a frame, and not following alphabetical order.

Alongside the year letter, the stamp usually includes a mark identifying the craftsperson who made the bag, and in recent years the workshop. That reflects one of the house's great traditions: most Hermès bags are made from start to finish by a single artisan.

Letters in a square, 1997 to 2014

These are the years most collectors meet when buying modern classics.

• 1997 A, 1998 B, 1999 C, 2000 D, 2001 E, 2002 F
• 2003 G, 2004 H, 2005 I, 2006 J, 2007 K, 2008 L
• 2009 M, 2010 N, 2011 O, 2012 P, 2013 Q, 2014 R

Letters without a frame, from 2015

From 2015 the letters no longer follow the alphabet, so they need to be learned or looked up.

• 2015 T, 2016 X, 2017 A, 2018 C, 2019 D, 2020 Y
• 2021 Z, 2022 U, 2023 B, 2024 W, 2025 K, 2026 G

Because some letters recur, the presence or absence of a frame matters. A K inside a square means 2007; a K without a frame means 2025. Construction, materials, hardware and the style of the stamp itself confirm which reading is right.

Circles and earlier letters

Bags from 1971 to 1996 carry a letter inside a circle, running through the alphabet over those years, and bags from before 1971 carry a letter alone. Vintage pieces of this age are increasingly sought after, especially in box calf and in classic colours, and Japan is one of the best places to find them in good condition, because so many were bought there in the 1980s and 1990s and carefully kept.

Other marks to know

• The heat stamp. On the front of the bag, beneath the clasp or on the front panel, the house name and "Paris" and "Made in France" are stamped, usually in the colour of the hardware. Spacing, depth and font are checked closely by specialists.
• Exotic leather marks. Bags in crocodile, alligator, lizard or ostrich carry additional marks indicating the type of skin.
• The horseshoe stamp. A small horseshoe beside the date stamp is widely understood to indicate a special order, made to a client's choice of colours or details. Such bags are rarer and often more valuable.
• Hardware. Padlocks and keys carry matching numbers, and the clochette that holds the keys should suit the bag.

Using the stamp when buying

The date stamp is useful, but it is not proof on its own. A correct letter can be copied, and an honest bag can have a stamp that is worn or hard to read. Use it as one piece of evidence among many.

1. Read the stamp. Identify the letter and frame, and check that the year fits the model, leather and colour. Some colours and leathers were only made in certain years.
2. Check consistency. The heat stamp, hardware, stitching and leather should all be consistent with that year.
3. Look at condition against age. A 2005 bag in near-unused condition is a rare survivor; a 2023 bag with heavy wear has been used hard.
4. Ask for clear photographs. The stamp, heat stamp, hardware, corners, handles and interior. Our guide to Japanese condition ranks explains how Japanese dealers describe condition.
5. Buy from someone who examines. Every Hermès piece we offer is examined in Japan, and our authenticity guarantee refunds the purchase price and the cost of returning it if a piece sold as Hermès is shown not to be authentic.

Questions collectors ask

Where is the date stamp on a Birkin or Kelly?

Usually on the inside of the strap that holds the closure, or on the leather beneath it. On other models it may be inside a pocket or on an interior panel.

What does a letter in a circle mean?

That the bag was made between 1971 and 1996. A letter in a square means 1997 to 2014, and a letter without a frame means either before 1971 or from 2015 onwards.

Can the date stamp prove a bag is genuine?

No. It helps to date a bag and to check consistency, but authenticity depends on the whole object, examined by someone with experience.

Does the year affect value?

It can. Recent bags in unused condition command strong prices, and certain vintage years, colours and leathers are sought after. Condition and completeness usually matter more than the year alone.

Can you find a bag from a particular year?

Yes. Our Hunting Salon™ searches Japan for specific models, leathers, colours and years.

Continue reading

• Louis Vuitton and Chanel Codes: date codes, serials and microchips.
• Japanese Condition Ranks Explained: what the letters mean.
• Why Japan Is the World's Finest Market for Pre-owned Luxury.
• Hermès: bags, accessories and watches examined in Japan.
• The Japan Luxury Archive.