Japanese Condition Ranks Explained: N, S, SA, A, B and C

Anyone who buys pre-owned luxury from Japan soon meets a small alphabet: N, S, SA, A, AB, B, C. These letters are the shorthand Japan's resale trade uses to describe condition, and they appear on everything from Hermès bags to Rolex watches and Chanel jackets. Read correctly, they tell you a great deal. Read carelessly, they can mislead, because the scale is a convention rather than a standard.

This guide explains what each rank usually means, the Japanese words that travel with them, what accessories are listed alongside, and how to read a description so that the piece that arrives is the piece you expected.

Why Japan grades so carefully

Japan has one of the largest and most organised second-hand markets in the world. An industry survey by the Reuse Economy Journal put the domestic reuse market at a record ¥3.3 trillion in 2024, almost three times its size in 2009, and luxury goods are one of its most valuable segments. In a market that large, buyers and dealers need a fast, shared language for condition, and the letter scale grew up to provide it.

Two habits of Japanese ownership also shape the grading. Many owners keep their pieces with unusual care: bags stored in dust bags inside their boxes, watches serviced and kept with their papers, clothes folded with tissue. And Japanese buyers are exacting. A small mark that a buyer elsewhere might overlook will often be photographed and noted. The result is a market in which "used" frequently means "used gently", and in which descriptions tend to be precise.

Our essay Why Japan Is the World's Finest Market for Pre-owned Luxury explores those habits further.

The ranks, from top to bottom

Exact definitions vary from one dealer to another, so treat the following as the common meaning of each rank rather than a rule.

N or S: new or unused

N (new) and S are used for pieces that have never been used, or that have been displayed or stored but not carried. Expect no wear at all, though a piece stored for some years may show slight changes from storage, such as a faint impression from packaging. Many dealers reserve N for items with full original accessories and S for unused items that may lack some.

SA: near unused

Used once or twice, or handled with great care. Wear, if any, should be visible only on close inspection: perhaps faint marks on hardware or the lightest softening of corners. For collectors, SA pieces often represent the best balance of value and condition.

A: light use

Clearly used but kept well. Small scratches on hardware, slight rubbing at the corners or a few marks inside are typical. Many A-rank pieces look excellent at arm's length.

AB: moderate use

A rank between A and B used by some dealers. Signs of use are visible, but the piece remains attractive and fully functional.

B: visible use

Wear is obvious: rubbing at corners and handles, scratches on hardware, some marks or stains, perhaps a slight change of shape. B-rank pieces are honest everyday companions and can be a good way into a model at a lower price.

C and below: heavy use or damage

Significant wear, damage, odours, repairs or missing parts. Some dealers add D or "junk" (ジャンク) for items sold as-is, sometimes for parts. These ranks can be useful for restorers, but they need to be read with great care.

The words that travel with the letters

• 未使用 (mishiyō): unused.
• 新品同様 (shinpin dōyō): as good as new, a common description for SA pieces.
• 美品 (bihin): literally "beautiful item", meaning in fine condition for a used piece. 極美品 (gokubihin) means exceptionally fine.
• 中古 (chūko): used, second-hand.
• 使用感 (shiyōkan): a sense of use, the visible traces of wear.
• 難あり (nan ari): with a fault; the description should say what.
• ジャンク (junk): sold as-is, usually not working or incomplete.

Accessories: the other half of the grade

A Japanese description usually lists the fuzokuhin (付属品), the accessories that come with the piece, separately from its condition. For luxury goods these can affect value as much as the condition itself.

• 箱 (hako): the original box.
• 保存袋 (hozonbukuro): the dust bag.
• ギャランティカード (guarantee card): for watches and some brands, the original warranty card or certificate.
• カデナ・クロシェット・鍵: for Hermès, the padlock, clochette and keys.
• レシート (receipt): a purchase receipt, which can support provenance.
• オーバーホール明細 (overhaul record): for watches, the service history.

"Full set" (フルセット) means all the expected accessories are present. A piece in A condition with a full set may be worth more than an SA piece without its papers.

How to read a description

1. Read the words, not just the letter. The detail beneath the rank tells you what the dealer actually saw: where the wear is, what is missing, what has been repaired.
2. Look at every photograph. Corners, handles, hardware, interior, base, stamps and, for watches, the case, clasp and caseback. Good Japanese descriptions show faults rather than hide them.
3. Ask about odour. Smoke, perfume and storage smells are hard to see in a photograph and hard to remove from leather.
4. Check the stamp or code. For Hermès, the date stamp; for Louis Vuitton, the date code or chip; for Chanel, the serial sticker and card. Our guides to Hermès date stamps and Louis Vuitton and Chanel codes explain each.
5. Allow for age. A thirty-year-old bag in A condition is a remarkable survivor; a two-year-old bag in A condition has simply been used.

How we describe condition

Every piece we offer is examined in Japan before it is offered. We describe condition in plain English, photograph faults as well as strengths, list the accessories that come with the piece, and state the stamp, serial or reference wherever it applies. If you would like further photographs or measurements before buying, ask the curator desk, which usually replies within one to three business days. And if a piece sold as by a named maker is ever shown not to be authentic, our authenticity guarantee refunds the purchase price and the cost of returning it.

Questions collectors ask

Is the Japanese condition scale the same everywhere?

No. The letters are widely shared, but each dealer defines them slightly differently. Always read the written description and photographs alongside the rank.

What is the difference between N and S?

Both indicate an unused piece. Many dealers use N for new items with full original accessories and S for unused items, sometimes stored for a while or missing some accessories.

Is an SA bag worth the premium over an A bag?

It depends on your purpose. For a collection or as a gift, SA and above hold their appeal best. For everyday use, a well-kept A piece offers the same pleasure at a lower price.

Does a missing box reduce value much?

For most luxury goods, a missing box reduces value modestly. Missing papers for a watch, or a missing padlock and keys for an Hermès bag, matter more.

Can you find a piece in a specific condition?

Yes. Our Hunting Salon™ searches Japan for particular models, colours and conditions, and our Deputy Vault™ can examine and buy on your behalf.

Continue reading

• Why Japan Is the World's Finest Market for Pre-owned Luxury: the culture behind the condition.
• Hermès Date Stamps Explained: reading the letter inside the bag.
• Louis Vuitton and Chanel Codes: date codes, serials and microchips.
• The Japan Luxury Archive: designer pieces examined in Japan.
• Documentation as Value: why papers matter.