Hermès Silk Scarves: The Carré
Hermès printed its first silk scarf in 1937. Since then the carré, the square, has become one of the house's most loved creations, worn knotted at the neck, tied to a bag or framed as art. Thousands of designs have been issued, many reissued in new colours, and collecting them is a world of its own.
How a carré is made
- Silk twill. The classic carré measures 90 by 90 centimetres in a dense silk twill with a characteristic diagonal weave.
- Design. Each design is drawn by an artist, then separated into colours by engravers.
- Printing. Each colour is screen-printed separately in the Lyon area, sometimes more than forty colours in a single design.
- Hand-rolled hem. The edges are rolled by hand and stitched with small, invisible stitches. On a genuine carré the hem rolls towards the printed side.
Sizes and formats
- Carré 90. The classic size.
- Carré 70. A smaller square, popular in earlier decades and revived.
- Shawls. Large formats around 140 centimetres, often in cashmere and silk blends.
- Gavroche and Twilly. A small square for the neck or pocket, and a narrow ribbon of silk for tying to bag handles.
Designers
Many designers have shaped the carré. Hugo Grygkar created numerous early designs, often drawing on equestrian themes and French history. Henri d'Origny, Philippe Ledoux and Cathy Latham are among the many artists whose names collectors seek. Kermit Oliver, a painter from Texas, created celebrated designs inspired by the American West. Most designers sign their work within the design.
Recognising a genuine carré
- The Hermès name and a copyright mark appear within the design, usually with the designer's signature.
- The colours are crisp and well registered, with no blurring between them.
- The hem is plump, hand-rolled and hand-stitched, never machine-flat.
- The silk has weight and a soft lustre, and the twill weave is visible on close inspection.
- Care labels, where present, should match the period of the design.
Condition and care
Look for stains, pulled threads, holes and fading, especially along fold lines. Store carrés flat or loosely rolled in a drawer, away from light. Have them dry-cleaned by a specialist familiar with silk, and avoid perfume and hairspray, which mark silk permanently.