Vintage Chanel Jewellery: A Collector's Guide to Marks and Eras
Gabrielle Chanel made it acceptable, then fashionable, to wear jewellery that was openly not precious. Ropes of glass pearls, poured-glass crosses and gilt chains became part of the Chanel look, and when Karl Lagerfeld took over the house in 1983 he turned the interlocking CCs, quilting, coins and chains into jewellery that announced itself across a room. Those pieces from the 1980s and 1990s are now among the most sought-after vintage fashion jewellery in the world.
A great deal of it lives in Japan. Japanese clients bought Chanel jewellery in quantity through the late 1980s and 1990s, and a culture of careful keeping means many pieces survive in their original boxes and pouches, with little wear. This guide explains how to read them.
A short history in four names
- Gabrielle Chanel: from the 1920s she mixed real and imitation stones freely, wore long ropes of faux pearls and treated jewellery as part of the outfit, not a store of value.
- Maison Gripoix: the Paris workshop famous for pâte de verre, poured glass set into metal like enamel, which gives Chanel crosses, flowers and cabochons their deep, glowing colour.
- Robert Goossens: the goldsmith who began working with Gabrielle Chanel in the 1950s, known for Byzantine-style crosses, rock crystal and hammered gilt metal.
- Karl Lagerfeld: from 1983 he made the logo itself the ornament: oversized CC earrings, coin belts stamped with the Rue Cambon address, quilted motifs and layered chains.
Reading the plaque: marks by era
Most Chanel costume pieces carry a small oval or round plaque on the back or near the clasp. The details changed over time, which helps to place a piece.
| Period | What the plaque usually shows |
|---|---|
| Early pieces | Often unsigned or marked with a simple CHANEL stamp; attribution relies on design and construction. |
| 1980s to 1992 | CHANEL with the copyright sign, CC and Made in France, plus a collection number such as 2, 3, 23, 25, 26, 28 or 29. |
| 1993 onward | A two-digit year followed by a season letter: P for spring (printemps) and A for autumn (automne). 95P is spring 1995; 96A is autumn 1996. |
| 2000s onward | Other season letters appear for additional collections, and later pieces may carry the code on a hang tag as well. |
The stamp should be crisp, centred and well struck. Blurred letters, uneven spacing, a plaque glued rather than soldered, or a season code that does not fit the design are reasons to look harder. For bags and small leather goods, see our guide to Chanel serials and date codes.
The pieces collectors want
- CC clip-on earrings: the core of most collections. Before the 2000s nearly all Chanel earrings were clip-ons, which suits many wearers today. Large round, quilted and pearl-drop designs are the most wanted.
- Brooches: CC logos, camellias, crosses, stars and Rue Cambon coins, often with strass (rhinestones) or faux pearls.
- Chain belts: single or multi-row gilt chains with medallions and coins. Many can be worn as long necklaces, which widens their appeal.
- Gripoix pieces: crosses, flowers and drop earrings in poured coloured glass, prized for their colour and craftsmanship.
- Pearl ropes and sautoirs: long strands of glass pearls, sometimes with CC spacers or gilt stations.
- Cuffs and bracelets: quilted gilt cuffs, chain bracelets with charms, and enamelled bangles from the 1990s.
Condition: plating, pearls and stones
- Plating: vintage Chanel is gold-tone plating over base metal. Check high points, clasp edges and the backs of earrings for wear through to the metal beneath. Light, even wear is honest; heavy loss lowers value, and replating changes the character of a piece.
- Glass pearls: the coating can chip or peel, especially near drill holes. Look closely at each pearl under good light.
- Strass and glass: missing or replaced stones are common. Gripoix glass should be smooth and unchipped.
- Clips and catches: earring clips should hold firmly; brooch pins should close cleanly; chain belts should have their original hooks.
- Accessories: an original box, pouch or card adds appeal, though the piece itself carries the value. Japanese condition grading is explained in our guide to condition ranks.
How we present each piece
Every piece in our Chanel room is examined in Japan before it ships, with the plaque, season code, plating and stones photographed, and travels insured and tracked. Each carries our authenticity guarantee: should an independent written opinion find a piece not genuine within 30 days, we refund the price and the cost of its return.
Questions collectors ask
Is vintage Chanel jewellery made of real gold?
No. Chanel costume jewellery is gold-tone plating over base metal, with glass, strass and faux pearls. Its value lies in the design, the period and the maker, not the materials.
Can clip-on earrings be converted for pierced ears?
They can, but conversion alters an original piece and usually reduces its collectable value. Most collectors keep clips as they are.
What does 95P mean on a Chanel piece?
It records the collection: the year 1995 and P for the spring season. An A would indicate an autumn collection.
Can you find a specific Chanel piece from a particular season?
Yes. Tell our Hunting Salon™ the design or season you have in mind, and the curator desk will reply within one to three business days.
Continue reading
- Mikimoto and Akoya Pearls: a collector's guide.
- Hermès Date Stamps Explained: reading the letter inside the bag.
- Why Japan Is the World's Finest Market for Pre-owned Luxury.