Mikimoto and the Akoya: A Collector's Guide to Japanese Pearls
Before the 1890s, almost every pearl on the market was a natural one, found by chance in a wild oyster and priced accordingly. Then a noodle-shop owner's son from Toba, on the coast of Mie Prefecture, changed the jewellery trade forever. Kōkichi Mikimoto's cultured pearls made a precious gem attainable, and the akoya pearl from Japanese waters became the classic white pearl of the twentieth century. Japan remains the best place in the world to find fine akoya and vintage Mikimoto jewellery.
This guide tells the story briefly, explains how pearls are judged, and sets out what to check when buying a pre-owned strand or piece.
How Mikimoto cultured the first pearls
Mikimoto began experimenting with pearl oysters in Ago Bay in 1888. On 11 July 1893, after years of failure, he harvested his first cultured pearls: semi-spherical, but real pearls grown by an oyster around an implanted nucleus. He patented the method in 1896 and opened his first shop in Ginza, Tokyo, in 1899. Fully spherical cultured pearls followed around 1905, and commercial harvests grew through the 1920s.
The European trade at first resisted cultured pearls, but tests showed they were formed in exactly the same way as natural pearls, from layers of nacre secreted by the oyster. Mikimoto's pearls went on to become a symbol of Japanese quality around the world. He died in 1954, aged 96, and the island in Toba where he worked is now known as Mikimoto Pearl Island.
What makes an akoya pearl
Akoya pearls are grown in the akoya oyster in the coastal waters of Japan. They are relatively small, typically a few millimetres up to about ten, and prized above all for their round shape and their sharp, mirror-like lustre. The classic colour is white with a rose, silver or cream overtone. Other cultured pearls, such as South Sea, Tahitian and freshwater pearls, come from different molluscs and waters and have their own characters.
How pearls are judged
- Lustre. The brightness and sharpness of reflections on the surface. This is the most important quality in an akoya pearl.
- Surface. The fewer blemishes, spots and pits, the better.
- Shape. Perfectly round pearls are rarest and most valuable for akoya.
- Nacre. Thicker nacre gives deeper lustre and better durability.
- Size. Larger akoya pearls are scarcer, and price rises steeply with size.
- Matching. In a strand, the pearls should match closely in colour, lustre and size.
Japan has its own grading vocabulary for top akoya, including the term hanadama, meaning "flower pearl", used for strands that an independent laboratory has certified as meeting high standards. A laboratory certificate adds confidence and value.
Buying vintage Mikimoto and fine akoya
- Look at the clasp. Mikimoto clasps and settings are usually stamped with the house's mark and the metal content. A missing or replaced clasp is not necessarily a problem, but it should be described.
- Check the stringing. Pearls should be knotted between each bead. Old silk can stretch or weaken, and a strand that needs restringing is easily remedied.
- Examine the surface and lustre. Wear shows as dull patches, especially near the clasp, where pearls touch the skin.
- Keep the box and papers. Original cases, certificates and receipts support provenance and value.
- Know what you are buying. Imitation pearls and treated pearls exist. A pearl from a reputable house, with documentation, removes most of the doubt.
Why Japan is the place to buy
Pearls have been given in Japan for generations, especially for weddings and formal occasions, and a good akoya strand is part of many Japanese family jewellery boxes. These pieces are kept in their cases and handed down, and they come back to the market in remarkable condition. Japanese jewellers also continue to set very high standards for akoya selection and grading.
Explore our Japanese bridal and jewellery brands and Japan gold jewellery, or ask our Hunting Salon™ to search for a specific size, length or design.
Care
- Put pearls on last, after perfume, cosmetics and hairspray.
- Wipe them with a soft cloth after wearing.
- Store them flat, apart from harder jewellery that can scratch them.
- Have strands restrung every few years if worn often.
Questions collectors ask
Is a cultured pearl a real one?
Yes. It is grown by a living oyster in the same way as a natural pearl. The difference is that the process is started by a person, not by chance.
How can I tell a Mikimoto piece?
By its marks, materials, workmanship and documentation. Clasps and settings usually carry the house's stamp, and original boxes and certificates help further.
What size of akoya pearl is best?
It depends on taste and budget. Around seven millimetres is a classic size for a strand; larger akoya pearls are rarer and considerably more expensive.
Do you ship pearls safely?
Yes. Every piece is examined in Japan and sent insured and tracked.