CHIKIRIYA Reversible Sukajan, Burgundy Velvet Whale Embroidery & Peacock Satin Reverse, Free Size M-L

A reversible CHIKIRIYA sukajan that sets two worlds of Japanese decorative art against each other: a vast pale whale embroidered across wine-burgundy velvet, and a full-tailed peacock among peonies on ivory and lavender satin. Dark, tactile and aquatic on one face; bright, painterly and ceremonial on the other.

The Piece

This richly imagined reversible sukajan by CHIKIRIYA brings two contrasting worlds into one atmospheric souvenir jacket. The principal face, in plush wine-burgundy velvet, is embroidered with an immense pale whale moving through stylized waves among smaller whales, ornamental goldfish and chrysanthemum blossoms; silver-white, blue, red, lavender and muted gold threads rise against the pile like a moonlit underwater garden. The reverse becomes a luminous ivory-and-lavender satin bomber, where a full-tailed peacock stands among large peonies, companion birds and drifting petals in an amber-gold painted atmosphere. Neither face functions as a conventional hidden lining: together they form a dialogue between the whale’s immense scale and the peacock’s ornamental splendor.

CHIKIRIYA is recognized within Japanese fashion for combining traditional imagery with an offbeat, contemporary sensibility, bringing together animals, flowers, tattoo-like linework, unexpected scale and richly colored textiles rather than reproducing classical motifs in a strictly historical manner. The sukajan itself developed from embroidered souvenir jackets associated with Yokosuka and other port communities in the postwar period, when American bomber and athletic-jacket construction met Japanese embroidery; it later moved into rockabilly, motorcycle fashion, punk, visual-kei wardrobes, luxury design, anime fashion and international streetwear. This example belongs to a later, more experimental chapter, keeping the reversible bomber architecture and monumental back imagery while replacing tiger-and-dragon pairings with whale, goldfish, peacock, chrysanthemum and peony.

The velvet’s short pile shifts between wine red, raspberry, dark crimson, maroon and near-black burgundy with the direction of the nap, so the embroidery seems suspended over a shadowed surface, and the whale swims in an imaginative crimson sea rather than a conventional blue ocean. Warm ivory rib-knit frames the collar, cuffs and waistband, echoing the whale’s silver-white thread and gathering the velvet into the compact souvenir-bomber silhouette.

The whale is embroidered diagonally across the back, its broad body filling much of the composition from near the center toward the lower right. Worked mainly in silver-white and pale gray thread with dark burgundy contours, its throat grooves, pectoral fin, eye, mouth and back markings are articulated through directional stitching rather than flat fill. The long pectoral fins, pleated throat and rounded body suggest a stylized humpback, simplified and enlarged to read as embroidery; it curves gently through the waves, monumental and calm rather than aggressive. Several smaller whales in white, cobalt, dark blue, pale gray and burgundy move around it, one above, one beneath and another partly visible at the right, suggesting a migrating group, while blue, white and burgundy waves curl around them in tattoo-like arcs, foam crests and ornamental scrolls.

Bright red ornamental goldfish with flowing fins, large eyes and fan-like tails swim near the upper-right floral cluster and the lower center, an intentionally improbable meeting of ocean, garden pond and floral textile. Chrysanthemum-like blossoms in lavender, violet, white, muted pink, red, burgundy and touches of yellow-green, some large radiating blooms with curled petals and others small buds and drifting petals, float through the water, freeing the scene from any single season. On the front, two mirrored floral-marine emblems of goldfish, blue-and-white marine creatures, chrysanthemums and water lines face inward toward the zipper as a condensed version of the back; diagonal welt pockets in matching velvet stay discreet, and the metal zipper on dark tape draws a narrow vertical line between them.

Reversed, the body turns smooth ivory satin, shifting between warm white, cream, pale champagne and soft silver, with lavender sleeves (lilac, orchid, mauve) carrying elongated ivory inserts and shaped shoulder panels for a sporting, varsity feel. A large peacock stands in profile at the center of the back, neck raised and crest upright, its pale-eyed face and slender beak turned toward a small companion bird. Its body is rendered in deep blue-violet, charcoal, muted green, cream and gray, the folded wings in overlapping green, gray, cream and dark feather forms, and the immense tail cascades diagonally toward the lower right and the waistband in repeated feather eyes of bronze, olive, gold, black, lavender, pale green and plum. The peacock appears printed or painted rather than embroidered, its softer-edged color fields keeping fine feather pattern light enough for reversible wear.

Large coral, rose, pink, lavender and cream peony-like blossoms gather at the upper right and lower left, framing the bird diagonally, while small stylized birds stand near its back or fly through the upper field and loose petals carry a breeze across the panel. The ivory chest carries two inward-facing pictorial panels of peonies, dark foliage, smaller blossoms and an approaching bird within warm yellow, orange and coral cloud-like fields. Lavender-trimmed welt pockets end in pointed arrow-like tips with a mid-century athletic character, and the open lower body keeps the side easy to wear. The reverse’s lavender, ivory, green, brown and coral palette still relates to the burgundy face through shared violet floral tones and cream ribbing.

Details

• Maker: CHIKIRIYA
• Era: Appears consistent with the 2000s to early 2010s (Heisei-era streetwear); exact year not identified
• Origin: Japan
• Material: Burgundy velvet or velour-finish textile with machine embroidery; ivory and lavender satin-finish reverse with printed or painted artwork; cotton ribbing; metal zipper (material tags: rayon satin, velvet textile, cotton ribbing, embroidery thread, printed satin, metal zipper)
• Color: Wine burgundy, ivory, lavender, cream, forest green, dark brown, silver-white, cobalt blue, turquoise, red, coral, violet, amber, yellow and muted gold
• Size: Free Size, indicated as approximately Japanese M-L
• Motifs: Humpback-like whale, smaller whales, ornamental goldfish, stylized waves, chrysanthemums · peacock, peonies, small birds, petals, foliage, softly clouded color fields
• Construction: Fully reversible bomber; raglan-style sleeves; reversible central metal zipper; ribbed collar, cuffs and waistband shared by both faces; welt pockets on both faces; decorative shoulder paneling on the reverse
• Ribbing: Warm ivory on the velvet face; cream, forest green and dark brown or burgundy stripes on the reverse

Condition

• Vintage pre-owned condition with gentle velvet nap variation, satin creasing, surface movement, embroidery-related rippling and age-appropriate handling or storage character; both faces remain visually strong, and the whale and peacock compositions retain substantial definition and color. Not presented as factory-new.
• Burgundy velvet: natural changes in nap direction, with areas lighter, darker, brushed or gently flattened depending on folds, handling and light; small pale fibers or light lint may be visible on the dark pile. The color remains deep and saturated in the photographs.
• Whale embroidery: clearly defined, with body, eye, mouth, throat grooves, fin, markings and waves in strong contrast and no major missing section visible. Minor raised fibers, isolated loose thread ends, subtle edge wear or light embroidery irregularity may be present; localized puckering around dense threadwork is typical of heavy embroidery on soft velvet.
• Smaller whales, goldfish, chrysanthemums and waves remain substantially intact and legible, their blue, red, white, violet and gold threads standing out against the burgundy.
• Ribbing: the ivory cuffs and waistband are present and structurally cohesive, with possible gentle age toning, mild waviness, relaxation or light surface wear.
• Ivory satin reverse: natural creasing, directional sheen and subtle tonal variation; pale satin shows pressure marks more readily than dark fabric. No catastrophic tear or missing panel is visible. The lavender sleeves show natural wrinkling and varied sheen, with the color substantially consistent.
• Peacock and chest artwork: the peacock, tail, flowers, birds and background fields remain clearly readable in strong purple, green, coral, yellow, cream and dark detailing; gentle surface wear, softened printed areas or minor age-related variation may be present. The paired floral chest panels remain well defined.
• The reversible metal zipper and lower fastening hardware are present; body panels, raglan seams, sleeves, pockets, cuffs, waistband and pictorial fields appear structurally complete, with no large hole, severe tearing or seam separation visible.
• Velvet and satin change with lighting, pile direction and screen calibration: the burgundy may read wine red, raspberry, crimson or maroon; the ivory cream or pale champagne; the lavender lilac, orchid or mauve. Additional photographs of embroidery edges, pile, artwork, ribbing, zipper, pockets or interior are available on request.
• Care: specialist dry cleaning only (no machine washing, soaking, bleach, scrubbing, wringing or tumble drying). Do not iron the velvet or embroidery directly, brush the pile aggressively, spot-clean the printed satin aggressively, or trim loose thread ends. Keep both faces from hook-and-loop fasteners and abrasive surfaces, do not carry by the ribbing, align the reversible zipper carefully without forcing it, and reverse the jacket slowly with the body supported. Store on a broad padded hanger in a breathable cover, away from sunlight, humidity, smoke, perfume, dust and compression, alternating the displayed face periodically.

Symbolism of the Motifs

Unlike the roaring tiger or coiling dragon of most sukajan, the whale expresses power through scale and composure, and its long migrations tie it naturally to the souvenir-jacket tradition of recording journeys and ports. Whale and goldfish set the immeasurable open sea against the intimate ornamental pond, wilderness and migration against cultivated beauty. On the reverse, peacock and peony form an especially auspicious pairing that recurs in Asian decorative art among flowering trees, while the small birds heighten the peacock’s grandeur and animate the garden.

• Whale: vastness, emotional depth, intuition, memory, protection, quiet strength, travel, return, continuity, communication across distance
• Goldfish (kingyo): beauty, abundance, domestic pleasure, summer festivals, cultivated elegance
• Chrysanthemum (kiku): longevity, endurance, refinement, autumn, nobility, rejuvenation
• Peacock: beauty, confidence, dignity, vigilance and protection through its eye-like feathers, renewal
• Peony (botan): prosperity, beauty, honor, abundance, romance, cultivated elegance

Fit and Styling

Tagged Free Size, approximately Japanese M-L; generally closest to a Western S-M or a trim M-L, depending on chest measurement, shoulder breadth, sleeve preference and layering. The compact bomber has raglan-style sleeves, a gathered waistband and moderate fullness through the arms, and the reversible construction adds more body than an unlined satin bomber. It suits masculine, feminine and gender-neutral styling.

Wear the whale face with black trousers, dark denim, ivory knitwear, boots or restrained monochrome layers, or lean into gothic, visual-kei and dark romantic wardrobes with black leather, silver jewelry and platform footwear. The peacock face pairs with cream, lavender, plum, olive, faded blue, brown or black, and contrasts well with long skirts, dresses and tailored trousers. Under directional light the velvet absorbs shadow while the whale glows and the satin throws broad highlights, which suits editorial photography, music and stage wardrobes.

Display Notes

On a broad padded hanger, either back becomes a large pictorial panel: the whale face dark, marine and almost nocturnal, the peacock face a luminous garden of birds, flowers and color. Collectors may alternate the visible face by season, interior palette or the theme of a collection.

Authenticity & Care

Attributed to CHIKIRIYA, with a Free Size tag indicated as approximately Japanese M-L; the precise year of manufacture is not identified in the photographs. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

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