Evisu
Vaqueros EVISU Yamane Daicock de brocado dorado, aplique Wagara estilo kimono, denim japonés índigo oscuro
Vaqueros EVISU Yamane Daicock de brocado dorado, aplique Wagara estilo kimono, denim japonés índigo oscuro
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Across the rear sweeps an enormous Daicock, EVISU's exaggerated gull, built not in paint but in gold Japanese brocade dense with flowers, foliage and medallions. Against deep indigo it reads like antique kimono cloth mounted on a denim canvas, Yamane-era EVISU at its most textile-minded.
The Piece
The Daicock takes EVISU's familiar gull, the Kamome-inspired mark normally confined to the back pockets, and enlarges it until it sweeps across the seat and legs as part of the garment's architecture. Here the motif begins beneath one rear pocket, rises across the seat in the brand's sweeping arc and descends almost to the knee on the opposite leg, and the entire curve is formed from patterned brocade appliqué rather than a single-color painted line. From across a room it reads as EVISU; from a few feet, as the giant Daicock; up close, as flowers, ornamental motifs, metallic-looking gold, woven detail and Japanese decorative pattern. The design reveals itself in stages.
The gold textile appears to be a brocade or jacquard-style weave carrying densely arranged Japanese-inspired motifs: floral clusters, foliage, ornamental roundels, red accents, green details, and cream and pale-gold grounds. Unlike a print, woven brocade draws its richness from the structure of the cloth, with threads catching light at different angles. Its associations with kimono and obi fabric are obvious, and the effect is wearable textile collage: workwear fabric against decorative textile, indigo against gold, Osaka denim against Japanese ornamental cloth. Because different sections of the brocade fall within the gull silhouette, the visible combination varies from piece to piece, and a textile Daicock is far more distinctive than the common painted or printed gull variations. EVISU itself still uses terms such as Brocade Inserted Daicock and Brocade Daicock Appliqué for contemporary interpretations of the idea.
The rear pockets interact with the motif rather than sitting apart from it: the brocade arc passes across and around the seat, while the horizontal rear-pocket openings remain visible above the gold curve, so denim construction and textile overlap as one composition. A brown leather-style EVISU and Yamane patch at the waistband, aged in color, complements the indigo and yellow-gold stitching without competing with the brocade.
The denim sits between raw-looking indigo, deep rinse and gently aged Japanese blue, with enough texture and subtle fading to avoid flatness. Golden-orange contrast stitching traces a classic five-pocket build: button fly, belt loops, coin pocket, front scoop pockets, copper-toned rivets and branded waist patch. Inside are contrasting pocket bags, reinforced waistband construction, metal hardware and overlocked seams; the care label gives machine-washing instructions and reads Design & Made Only by Yamane, evidence that this was conceived as real denim first, with its decoration built into that framework.
EVISU was founded in Osaka in 1991 by Hidehiko Yamane and became a defining name of the Japanese denim revival, when enthusiasts did not merely copy American jeans but dissected them: fabric weight, shuttle looms, indigo character, stitching, rivets, pocket shape and fading became subjects of almost archaeological attention. The gull turned otherwise traditional jeans into instantly identifiable objects; the ordinary gull is branding, the Daicock becomes composition, and in brocade it becomes Japanese textile culture stitched into Japanese denim culture.
Details
- Maker: EVISU / EVISU Jeans; Hidehiko Yamane (Yamane)
- Material: Indigo cotton denim; gold and cream brocade or jacquard-style appliqué; leather-style patch
- Color: Deep indigo; brocade in gold and cream with multicolor floral and traditional Japanese motifs, red and green accents
- Size: Tag size not clearly shown in the photographs
- Fit: Straight-leg, classic Japanese five-pocket silhouette
- Closure: Button fly
- Rear Design: Oversized brocade Daicock appliqué; dual horizontal welt-style rear pockets integrated around the motif
- Hardware & Stitching: Copper-toned rivets, metal hardware, golden-orange contrast topstitching, overlocked seams, contrasting pocket bags
- Labels: Brown leather-style EVISU/Yamane patch; care label reading Design & Made Only by Yamane
Condition
- Pre-owned, with attractive denim character, light wear and natural surface variation consistent with previous use.
- Please examine the photographs closely, particularly the hems, seat, brocade appliqué, pocket areas, waistband, button fly, leather patch and denim surface.
- Natural fading, rubbing, thread variation, minor marks or creasing may be present as part of an already-developed pair.
Authenticity & Care
The woven care label inside the waistband reads Design & Made Only by Yamane, wording tied to the founder-driven identity of earlier EVISU production, and a brown leather-style EVISU/Yamane patch sits at the rear waistband. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally.
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