THE FASHIONISTA BIBLE · JAPONISTA UNIVERSE
Lee: Kansas Workwear, Japanese Devotion
The H.D. Lee Mercantile Company was founded in Salina, Kansas, in 1889 and became one of the three great names of American denim. Lee introduced zip-fly jeans in 1926, and its 101 Riders and cowboy jackets set patterns that were copied for generations.
Japan’s denim makers treat those patterns as reference points, and Japanese collectors have long hunted vintage Lee for its fit, its fabric and its labels. Fades, repairs and measured waist and inseam matter more than the tag size, so each pair carries full measurements and a note on wear.
Era is read from labels, rivets, stitching and selvedge details; where a piece carries them, we photograph them so you can judge for yourself.
The Hunting Salon™
If you are looking for a particular Lee jean, jacket or size, the Hunting Salon™ can assist discreetly with search, verification and shipping.
Curator’s note: Read Japan’s Denim Obsession and browse Levi’s beside it. Continue with the Fashionista Bible, the directory of Japanese denim brands and the collector guides.
Frequently asked questions
Where was Lee founded?
In Salina, Kansas, in 1889.
How is condition described?
Every piece carries a Japanese condition rank from N to C, explained in Japanese Condition Ranks Explained.
Do you ship worldwide?
Yes. Duties vary by destination; see Import Duties on Luxury Goods from Japan.
Index terms: lee jeans · lee 101 riders · lee vintage · lee cowboy jacket · lee workwear · american denim · vintage denim japan · zip fly jeans
