Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Jumbo 3605/1J · 18K Gold Integrated Bracelet · Automatic Cal.28-255 · Blue-Grey Sunburst Dial · 1970s Vintage

THE GOLDEN OVAL OF THE 1970s — RARE JUMBO 3605/1J
An icon of Swiss modernism, sculpted entirely in 18K yellow gold and elevated by a blue-grey sunburst dial whose tone has matured into a nuanced, age-shifted patina.
The ultra-slim automatic calibre 28-255 — a sibling of the legendary movement used by early Royal Oaks — makes this reference one of the most refined Golden Ellipse executions ever produced.
Hand-woven integrated gold bracelet. Architectural form. Museum-level presence.

Description

The Golden Ellipse 3605/1J represents Patek Philippe at its most sculptural: a seamless interplay of geometry, proportion, and restrained opulence. Introduced in the early 1970s in celebration of the Ellipse’s design ethos, the “Jumbo” execution offered an enlarged, more architectural presence while maintaining the purity of the iconic golden-ratio oval. This example delivers precisely that balance — an object that feels both jewel-like and structural on the wrist.

The dial is a highlight: a blue-grey sunburst surface that has shifted subtly with age, a phenomenon prized by collectors because it is organic, non-uniform, and entirely unrepeatable today. Depending on the angle, it transitions from smoky graphite to midnight blue. The applied gold baton indexes and matching hands sit in precise harmony, glowing against the softened metallic tone.

Inside beats Patek Philippe’s calibre 28-255, one of the finest ultra-thin automatic movements of its era. Sharing lineage with the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 (famously used in the early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Vacheron 222), the movement’s architecture reflects the peak of 1970s Swiss micro-engineering. According to the seller’s report, the watch received a full overhaul at Patek Philippe in March 2025, and remains under Patek’s 2-year service warranty — an exceptional value and a significant confidence marker for collectors.

The integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet is woven in the Ellipse’s signature pattern and remains well-preserved, with its original clasp and fluid articulation. At 121g of solid gold, the watch has substantial presence without feeling excessive; the Ellipse form distributes weight elegantly across the wrist.

Examples of the 3605/1J in clean, original condition with a naturally matured dial and recent Patek service are rarely seen in the open market, particularly with the bracelet intact. This is a standout opportunity for collectors seeking a vintage Patek that bridges modern design, horological purity, and unmistakable 1970s charisma.

Condition Report (Collector Grade)

Overall Grade: B+ (Vintage Excellent)

• Dial: Blue-grey sunburst with uniform age shift; no major spotting; original lume.

• Hands & Markers: Clean; minor oxidation consistent with age.

• Case: Sharp with light surface wear; no major dents.

• Bracelet: 18K integrated woven bracelet in excellent tension; minimal stretch.

• Crystal: Clean.

• Movement: Automatic calibre 28-255; overhauled by Patek in March 2025 with 2-year warranty (to March 2027).

• Inclusions: Overhaul box, PP service documentation.

• Notes: Natural patination preserved; no cosmetic over-polishing.

Specifications

• Brand: Patek Philippe

• Model: Golden Ellipse Jumbo

• Reference: 3605/1J

• Era: 1970s

• Movement: Automatic (Cal. 28-255)

• Case Material: 18K Yellow Gold

• Bracelet: Integrated 18K Yellow Gold (121g total weight as listed)

• Case Size: 33 mm (w/o crown) × ~41 mm (lug-to-lug), ~7 mm thickness

• Dial: Blue-Grey Sunburst (age-shifted)

• Crystal: Mineral

• Wrist Size: 17.5–18 cm

• Function: Time + Date

• Service: Overhauled by Patek Philippe (March 2025)

• Inclusions: Overhaul box, PP service sheet

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