Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Jumbo 3605/1J in 18K Yellow Gold, Woven Bracelet, Blue-Grey Dial, 1970s

The golden oval of the 1970s in its enlarged Jumbo form: a 3605/1J sculpted entirely in 18K yellow gold, its blue-grey sunburst dial matured into a nuanced, age-shifted tone. Inside is the ultra-slim automatic Cal. 28-255, overhauled by Patek Philippe in March 2025.

The Piece

The Golden Ellipse 3605/1J shows Patek Philippe at its most sculptural, an interplay of geometry, proportion and restrained opulence. Introduced in the early 1970s, the Jumbo execution gave the golden-ratio oval a larger, more architectural presence without losing its purity, and this example feels at once jewel-like and structural on the wrist.

The dial is the highlight: a blue-grey sunburst surface that has shifted subtly with age, an organic, non-uniform change that cannot be repeated today. Depending on the angle it moves from smoky graphite to midnight blue, with applied gold baton indexes and matching hands glowing against the softened metallic tone.

Calibre 28-255 is among the finest ultra-thin automatic movements of its era. It shares lineage with the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, the movement famously used in the early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Vacheron Constantin 222, and its architecture reflects the peak of 1970s Swiss micro-engineering. A full overhaul at Patek Philippe in March 2025 carries a two-year service warranty running to March 2027.

The integrated 18K yellow gold bracelet is woven in the Ellipse's signature pattern and keeps its original clasp and fluid articulation. At 121 g of solid gold the watch has substantial presence without excess, the oval form spreading the weight across the wrist. Examples in clean, original condition with a naturally matured dial, recent Patek service and the bracelet intact are rarely seen.

Details

• Maker: Patek Philippe
• Model: Golden Ellipse Jumbo
• Reference: 3605/1J
• Era: 1970s
• Material: 18K yellow gold case and integrated woven bracelet
• Dial: Blue-grey sunburst (age-shifted) with applied gold baton indexes
• Crystal: Mineral
• Size: Case 33 mm (without crown) × approx. 41 mm lug to lug, approx. 7 mm thick; wrist size 17.5–18 cm
• Weight: 121 g total
• Movement: Automatic, Cal. 28-255; overhauled by Patek Philippe in March 2025, two-year service warranty to March 2027
• Functions: Time and date
• Included: Patek Philippe overhaul box and service documentation

Condition

• Overall grade B+ (vintage excellent); natural patination preserved, with no cosmetic over-polishing.
• Dial: blue-grey sunburst with uniform age shift; no major spotting; original lume.
• Hands and markers: clean, with minor oxidation consistent with age.
• Case: sharp, with light surface wear and no major dents.
• Bracelet: 18K integrated woven bracelet in excellent tension, with minimal stretch.
• Crystal: clean.
• Movement: overhauled by Patek Philippe in March 2025.

Authenticity & Care

Overhauled by Patek Philippe in March 2025, with the Patek Philippe service sheet and overhaul box documenting the work and a service warranty to March 2027. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

Collectors also search: patek philippe golden ellipse jumbo · patek 3605/1j · patek ellipse 3605 yellow gold bracelet · patek ellipse blue dial · patek cal 28-255 · vintage patek ellipse 1970s