Directory of Japanese Watch Brands

Japanese watchmaking combines large manufactures that make almost every part in house with a small group of independent watchmakers whose pieces are made by hand. This directory introduces the names collectors encounter most.

Seiko and its families

Seiko grew from a Tokyo shop opened by Kintarō Hattori in 1881. For much of the twentieth century two group companies, Suwa Seikosha and Daini Seikosha, made watches in friendly competition, and their dial marks help to identify vintage pieces.

  • Grand Seiko. Introduced in 1960 as Seiko's finest line, and now a brand in its own right, known for Zaratsu polishing and the Spring Drive movement.
  • King Seiko. A high grade line of the 1960s and 1970s from the Daini factory, revived in recent years.
  • Credor. Seiko's luxury dress watch line, including hand finished pieces from its micro artist studio.
  • Astron. The world's first quartz wristwatch, introduced in 1969.

Citizen

Citizen began as a watch research institute in Tokyo in 1918 and took its present name from an early pocket watch. It is known for Eco-Drive light powered movements, radio controlled watches and, at the top of its range, The Citizen.

Orient

Orient was founded in 1950 and became known for affordable mechanical watches. It is now part of the Seiko Epson group, and its Orient Star line offers finer finishing.

Casio

Casio entered watchmaking in the 1970s and introduced the G-Shock in 1983. Early and limited G-Shock models are now collected in their own right.

Independent watchmakers

  • Hajime Asaoka. A Tokyo watchmaker known for meticulous, architectural dials and tourbillons.
  • Masahiro Kikuno. Celebrated for watches using the traditional Japanese temporal hours.
  • Naoya Hida. Known for hand engraved dials in a restrained style.
  • Kurono Tokyo. Small series watches designed by Hajime Asaoka.
  • Minase. A small manufacture in Akita prefecture with a distinctive case construction.

Collector notes

  • Seiko and Citizen serial numbers encode the year and month of production.
  • Domestic market models often have dials and day wheels in Japanese, and are sought after abroad.
  • Original boxes, guarantee cards and bracelets add to the value of vintage Japanese watches.

Related references

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