Japanese Heritage Flight Jackets: The Amekaji Masters

From the 1980s onward, a small group of Japanese makers set out to reproduce American work and military clothing more faithfully than anyone had before. They studied surviving originals, commissioned fabrics and leathers to period specifications, and copied labels, zips and stitch counts. The result, part of the wider style known in Japan as amekaji (American casual), is a body of clothing that collectors around the world now seek out in its own right. Flight jackets are its summit.

For the wider story of how Japan absorbed and refined American style, read our essay on Ametora, and for denim, our guide to Kojima and Okayama selvedge.

The jackets to know

• A-2: the US Army Air Forces' horsehide flight jacket, adopted in 1931, with knitted cuffs and waist, snap-down collar and patch pockets. The defining piece for most collectors.
• G-1: the US Navy's goatskin jacket with a mouton fur collar and bi-swing back.
• B-3: the heavy sheepskin bomber jacket worn at altitude, with a large shearling collar.
• B-15 and MA-1: the move to cloth and nylon, culminating in the MA-1 of the jet age, with its orange lining.
• Deck and work jackets: the N-1 deck jacket and denim work jackets that Japanese makers reproduce with the same care.

The makers collectors follow

• Buzz Rickson's: the military brand of Toyo Enterprise, a Tokyo company founded in 1965. Its flight jackets grew out of the Sugar Cane line's work in the late 1980s, and the Buzz Rickson's concept followed in 1993. Known for MA-1s, B-15s and cloth flight jackets as much as leather.
• The Real McCoy's: among the most exacting makers of A-2s, G-1s and military clothing, with jackets based on specific original contracts and makers.
• Toys McCoy: leather flight jackets and Americana with a cinematic streak, from A-2s to motorcycle jackets.
• Freewheelers: work, military and motorcycle clothing with a strong pre-war flavour.
• Denim houses: Warehouse, Full Count, Sugar Cane, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Samurai and Studio D'Artisan for jeans, work shirts and denim jackets.

What to check before buying

• Leather: horsehide, goatskin and sheepskin each age differently. Look for supple leather without dry cracking, especially at the collar, cuffs and pocket edges.
• Knits and lining: original knit cuffs and waistbands in good order, and linings without tears. Replacement knits are common on well-worn jackets.
• Zip and hardware: the correct period-style zip, working smoothly, and intact snaps.
• Labels: maker and contract labels should be present and match the model. Japanese makers list the reference model and size clearly.
• Size: Japanese makers usually size to period American patterns, numbered by chest in inches (for example 38, 40, 42). Ask for flat measurements of chest, shoulder, sleeve and length.

How we present each jacket

Every jacket in our Amekaji and fashion rooms is examined in Japan, with flat measurements, labels and any wear photographed, and travels insured and tracked. Each carries our authenticity guarantee: should an independent written opinion find a piece not genuine within 30 days, we refund the price and the cost of its return.

Questions collectors ask

Why do Japanese reproductions cost more than vintage originals?

Many originals are fragile after eighty years. A Japanese reproduction gives the same pattern and materials in wearable condition, made in small runs with costly leathers and hand work.

How should a leather flight jacket be cared for?

Wear it, keep it on a broad hanger away from heat and damp, and condition the leather sparingly with a product suited to its hide.

Can you find a specific model or contract?

Yes. Our Hunting Salon™ searches for particular models, contracts and sizes, and the curator desk replies within one to three business days.

Continue reading

• Japanese Designer Archives: CDG, Yohji, Issey and the wider circle.
• Kojima and Okayama Selvedge Denim.
• Japanese Condition Ranks Explained.