Japanese Designer Archives: Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake
In 1981, two young Japanese designers showed in Paris and changed fashion. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto sent out loose, asymmetric, mostly black clothes that seemed to ignore every rule of Western dressmaking, and the critics did not know what to make of them. Several years earlier, Issey Miyake had already begun showing his own vision of clothing in Paris. Together, these three designers made Japan a permanent force in fashion, and their archive pieces are now among the most collected clothes in the world.
This guide introduces each designer, explains what collectors look for, and shows how to date and judge a piece.
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons in Tokyo in 1969 and established the company in 1973. Her work questions what clothing is for: holes, raw edges, padding, distortion and the refusal of conventional beauty. Landmark collections, such as the padded "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body" of Spring/Summer 1997, are studied in museums and fiercely sought by collectors. The company has also nurtured other designers, including Junya Watanabe, who launched his own line under the Comme des Garçons umbrella in 1992.
Comme des Garçons is also famous for its collaborations, and pieces made with other houses have become collectable in their own right.
Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto launched his first label, Y's, in 1972 and showed in Paris from 1981. His clothes are cut generously, with long lines, asymmetry and a deep love of black, and they draw equally on workwear, tailoring and traditional Japanese dress. The menswear line, Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme, and seasons with distinctive prints and artwork are especially collected. His long partnership with adidas, as Y-3, brought his ideas into sportswear.
Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake founded the Miyake Design Studio in 1970 and became famous for his exploration of fabric and technology, above all pleating. His Pleats Please line, launched in 1993, used a technique in which garments are pleated after cutting and sewing, making them light, packable and endlessly versatile. He died in 2022, and his archive, from early experimental pieces to sculptural collaborations with artists, is attracting renewed attention.
The wider circle
Japanese fashion did not stop with the founding three. Designers such as Jun Takahashi of UNDERCOVER, Takahiro Miyashita of Number (N)ine, Chitose Abe of sacai and Junya Watanabe have their own archive followings, with particular seasons and pieces commanding strong interest. Browse UNDERCOVER, Number (N)ine, sacai and Junya Watanabe.
Dating and judging a piece
- Labels. Each house has used a succession of labels and sub-lines. The style of the label, its typeface and its wording help to place a garment in its period.
- Care tags and codes. Many Japanese designer garments carry product codes and care tags that indicate the line and the season. Comme des Garçons tags, for example, commonly show the year with the prefix "AD".
- Season and provenance. Pieces from celebrated collections, runway looks and rare prints are worth far more than everyday basics. Matching a piece to a documented season adds value.
- Condition. Check for moth damage, fading, stains and alterations. Some designs are intentionally distressed, so understanding the original is essential.
- Size and fit. Japanese sizing differs between houses and lines. Ask for flat measurements.
Why Japan is the place to buy
These designers have been followed in Japan for decades, and Japanese collectors bought, wore and preserved their work from the beginning, including many pieces never sold abroad. Japan's resale trade describes designer clothing carefully, with condition grades, measurements and season details. Our guide to Japanese condition ranks explains how to read those descriptions.
Explore Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto and Y-3 and Issey Miyake, or ask our Hunting Salon™ to search for a particular season or piece.
Questions collectors ask
Why are Japanese designer archives so collectable?
Because the founding designers changed the direction of fashion, produced many pieces in small numbers, and are now studied in museums. Key seasons are scarce and widely recognised.
How do I know which season a piece is from?
From its labels, tags, codes and design, compared with documented collections.
Are Japanese sizes smaller?
Often, though it varies by house and line, and some designers cut generously. Flat measurements are the only reliable guide.
How quickly will I hear back about a request?
The curator desk usually replies within one to three business days.