"Understanding the 'Eternal Americana' - What Is a 'Stadium Jacket'?

- Top 5 Classic and Popular Brands -

As the new year begins, we find ourselves already counting down the months. Since the emergence of COVID-19, time seems to have been lost in a way, but the clock never stops ticking. While we hesitate to go outside in the warmth of our living rooms, the hands of the clock cruelly advance, forcing us to anticipate and adapt to future changes. The escalation of anxiety is, in a way, accelerating.

Paradoxically, this leads to a growing affection for classics—timeless and universal. They remain unaffected by the times, shining calmly when the opportunity arises. Such clothing, resembling an ideal way of life, is indeed rare. Wearing them is a source of pride, and their uniqueness liberates us from external pressures. Embrace change while not fearing the things that remain unchanged. Do not lose sight of yourself.

Now, let's delve deep into a timeless masterpiece that strongly influences us—the "Eternal Americana." The first installment of this series features the "Stadium Jacket." Let's explore its essence and origins.

Born as a symbol of honor, the Stadium Jacket became rooted in culture. To truly understand the charm of an item, you must first discern its essence. Let's start with the roots of the "Stadium Jacket." It is commonly abbreviated as "Sta-jan," but its precise name should be "STADIUM JUMPER."

However, this is a case of Wasei-Eigo (Japanese-made English), and unfortunately, it deviates from the original meaning of "jumper for stadiums." In the United States, the birthplace of the jacket, it is referred to as the "VARSITY JACKET," "AWARD JACKET," or "LETTERMAN JACKET" and sometimes "LETTERED JACKET."

"Varsity" signifies a "representative team (such as a university's)," "Award" means "to give or grant (a prize, scholarship, etc.)" or "a prize or scholarship" itself, and "Letter" represents the "initial letter of a school name." In other words, the Stadium Jacket is not just an indicator of where it's worn; originally, it was a badge of honor awarded to a select elite representing their alma mater.

It is said to have originated from the late 19th-century uniforms of Harvard University's prestigious baseball team, representing America's leading institution. Later, it gained popularity among players from the "Ivy League," a group of eight private universities on the East Coast. By the 1930s, it had become a classic, featuring a wool body, leather sleeves, snap-button front, and wool ribbing at the collar, cuffs, and hem.

Accompanied by the initial "H" of Harvard and other details like the university's founding year, these jackets are a symbol of pride.

At first glance, the "Stadium Jacket," a symbol of honor, is not exclusive to baseball. The Stadium Jacket gradually found its way into various sports such as basketball, American football, and more, increasing its influence. When items featuring pro team logos started circulating, the number of fans wearing them to support their teams at stadiums also grew. The background of this era, when this fashion was imported to Japan, is one of the reasons behind the name "Stadium Jacket."

In Japan, Stadium Jackets have been around since the 1960s, and they experienced a boom in the 1980s, becoming a representative item of the so-called "Ame-kaji" (American casual) style. Now, as we move into the 2020s, the revival of 80s and 90s culture is gaining momentum.

Let's delve into the archives of five essential brands to understand Stadium Jackets better.

Popular Brands of Stadium Jackets - #1

BUTWIN: An established brand that laid the foundation for today's design codes.

The top pick for understanding Stadium Jackets is BUTWIN. Established in 1938 in Minneapolis, Minnesota, this long-standing brand is known for the original Stadium Jacket with a Melton wool body and leather sleeves. While they continue releasing items under the brand name RENNOC, vintage pieces from the mid-20th century are highly valued. Each decade brought changes in tag design, adding to the excitement for fans.

The model we are introducing this time features a tag that dates back to the 1960s. The navy melton body exudes sincerity and elegance, with a sturdy strength. As expected, on the left chest, three-dimensional alphabet letters proudly grace the jacket.

In contrast to the navy body, there's a yellow chenille patch. This three-dimensional design is also known as "Sagara" embroidery in Japan.

This embellishment, inseparable from Stadium Jackets, is called a chenille (chenille) patch, derived from the French word for "caterpillar." The pile-like embroidery on felt fabric is cute and full of presence. Originally, it was an outerwear piece for student uniforms aspiring to become stars, which suggests a transformation from caterpillar to a splendid butterfly.

From the design of the tag, it is presumed that this Stadium Jacket was made in the 1960s.

By the way, the earliest Stadium Jackets, known as Varsity Jackets, had relatively understated embellishments through patches. They were considered solemn items in the Ivy League of the East Coast. The flashy designs on sleeves and elsewhere became more prevalent, primarily on the West Coast, from the 1970s onward.

Popular Brands of Stadium Jackets - #2

DeLONG: A leading sports apparel company that gained prominence on the West Coast.

Founded in 1856, DeLONG is one of America's premier sports apparel companies, established at a time when the Crimean War ended and the Tokugawa Shogunate still existed in Japan. While it faced bankruptcy in 2009, it remains active today through mergers and consolidations with other companies. Originally founded in Iowa, it has since moved its manufacturing operations to the Dominican Republic.

 

DeLONG's Stadium Jacket is tough yet lightweight, adorned with bold patches on the back.

With a manufacturing history of over 70 years, DeLONG prides itself on exceptional quality. These jackets possess toughness while being surprisingly lightweight. Their comfortable fit sets them apart from others, gaining immense trust not only from North American high schools and universities for school orders but also from numerous professional teams in MLB, NBA, NHL, and NFL.

The piece we're featuring here is presumed to be from the 1990s. Its green melton body and black leather sleeves create a rugged image. The familiar chenille patch is placed not on the chest but on the hand warmer pocket, adding a playful and stylish accent with its white color and slightly tilted design.

There is also subtle embroidery on the right chest. It could resemble a Germanic-sounding name.

There's also a bold chenille patch on the back, and from that, it can be inferred that it was a piece intended for the wrestling team at "York Community High School." On the right chest, there is embroidery that could be interpreted as a person's name, "Schulte." This kind of overanalyzing one's origins is one of the unique pleasures of vintage items.

On the tag, you'll find the brand logo written in an authentic typeface.

While we mentioned in the previous section that flashy embellished Stadium Jackets were typically associated with the West Coast, it's worth noting that many of them were manufactured by DeLONG, a company hailing from the American Midwest, specifically Iowa. Truly a historic and prominent name in the industry.

Popular Brands of Stadium Jackets - #3

SKOOKUM - A brand with a modern, smart, and rude mood that aligns with modern fashion.

The next brand, SKOOKUM, started in 1939, a year before BUTWIN, and is considered a prestigious name among Stadium Jacket enthusiasts.

In Japan, it's known as the Pharaoh jacket, but in the United States, it's generally recognized as a car coat from SKOOKUM.

The brand name SKOOKUM originates from an Indigenous American language, signifying "ultimate" or "peerless." The name reflects the quality and lives up to its reputation. Even in this version with stripped-down decorations like the chenille patches, it still carries a unique aura.

 

The essential elements of a stadium jacket, the shawl collar and raglan sleeves.

This type, known as the "Pharaoh jacket" in Japan, exudes a rebellious aura with its black and gold color scheme. And for a good reason, the jacket is reminiscent of the type worn by the delinquent boys in the 1973 film "American Graffiti," directed by George Lucas. The naming of this jacket type is derived from their gang in the movie, the "Pharaohs."

The longer length lacks ribbing, giving it a clean and sleek impression.

While it retains the rib-knit shawl collar and raglan sleeves, the design diverges from the conventional style of a stadium jacket. There is no ribbing at the hem, and the length falls in the middle to long range. During the 1960s when it was the setting for "American Graffiti," cars didn't have air conditioning, and this jacket was favored for warmth, earning it the nickname "car coat."

At the neckline, there is a brand tag along with a tag that conveys "Made in USA."

In any case, this jacket, solid yet with a relaxed length, expresses a different kind of refinement compared to decorative stadium jackets. Its modern silhouette also exudes a sense of relaxation and should effortlessly fit into current trends.

In 2019, the brand was once discontinued, but it was resurrected by fans in Japan. I hope you can feel the warmth, considering this background.