Tailor Toyo
Sukajan reversible Tailor Toyo TT11510 Wheels, bordado de calavera hot rod femenina y tigre dorado, circa 2008
Sukajan reversible Tailor Toyo TT11510 Wheels, bordado de calavera hot rod femenina y tigre dorado, circa 2008
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Tailor Toyo’s TT11510 trades the dragon-and-eagle formula for hot-rod theater: twin women presenting skulls beside a flaming blue demon set between racing wheels, beneath gold “WHEELS” lettering. Reversed, it becomes a quiet champagne jacket with a tonal tiger in bamboo, two forms of rebellion joined by one zipper.
The Piece
Japanese collector documentation identifies the Wheels configuration, paired with the gold tiger Japan reverse, as Tailor Toyo model TT11510, a polyester reversible sukajan released in approximately 2008. Japanese records repeatedly associate the model with the singer aiko, known for bringing distinctive vintage-inspired Japanese fashion into her public wardrobe, which adds a further layer of interest for collectors of Japanese music, fashion and early-2000s culture.
The primary face is a muted sage-green satin with ivory or pearl-white sleeves, dark navy piping and ribbing striped in navy, gold, rust and cream; the surface moves between green, silver and olive as the light changes. Across the shoulders, “WHEELS” is embroidered in large antique-gold serif capitals that recall mid-century automotive signage, workshop logos and racing-club jackets. Below, two mirrored women stand like guardians of a forbidden garage, each in a sharply fitted floor-length black gown with high slit, long black gloves, cross-laced stockings, red interior fabric, high heels, elaborate black hair and red lips and eye accents. Each presents a human skull on an extended palm and holds a small red-handled blade in the other hand.
Between them, a blue demon head is suspended between two large tires: white, sharply angled eyes, a long red tongue, black contour stitching, red side extensions, a pointed flame-like crown, gold forehead markings and a wide skeletal grin, the wheels worked with repeated tread, gray sidewalls and black directional lines suggesting vibration. Silver smoke curls upward to a second skull outlined in muted metallic thread, binding lettering and machine into one symmetrical composition, with plum and gray wheel detailing and red accents throughout. The front carries two mirrored skull-and-crossbones emblems in ivory, pale gray and subtle blue, open-jawed with exaggerated teeth, framing the zipper above arrow-shaped pocket trim. The vocabulary is American custom-car art, where monsters, flaming engines and grinning supernatural drivers stood for mechanical rebellion, translated into dimensional Japanese threadwork with overtones of tattoo flash, psychobilly and Japanese delinquent culture.
The reverse is champagne, pale-gold or warm beige satin with matching rib-knit trim, embroidered almost entirely in closely related brown and taupe thread, so that the imagery appears through relief and shadow rather than color contrast. Two mirrored roaring tiger heads on the chest show open jaws, curved fangs, flared whiskers, heavy facial striping and textured fur, almost ghostlike from a distance. Across the back, beneath the word “Japan,” a large tiger advances low through bamboo and foliage, head raised, its fur, stripes, paws, shoulders and face described in fine directional stitching. Tiger and bamboo pair force with flexibility, a calm counterweight to the speed and skulls of the other face, and this side can be worn as a refined vintage bomber that keeps the spectacle hidden.
Tailor Toyo traces its lineage to Kosho & Co., principal supplier of embroidered souvenir jackets to military post exchanges in the genre’s formative postwar years; the company states that its predecessor’s share of souvenir-jacket supply reached approximately 95 percent during the 1950s. By the 1970s the jackets had entered Japanese youth culture through motorcycle gangs, rockabilly, musicians and street fashion, and the name sukajan grew from their visibility around Yokosuka. TT11510 belongs to the late-2000s moment when Japanese heritage fashion revisited 1950s rockabilly, workwear, military clothing, custom cars, tattoo imagery and Yankii subculture: less a reproduction of a 1950s jacket than a 2000s Japanese reading of how the 1950s came to be remembered.
Details
- Maker: Tailor Toyo by Toyo Enterprise
- Model: TT11510
- Design: Wheels / Gold Tiger Japan
- Era: Circa 2008
- Material: Polyester, per Japanese collector records; glossy satin-style shell, satin-on-satin reversible; synthetic embroidery thread; rib knit
- Color: Side A sage green with ivory sleeves, navy piping and antique-gold lettering; Side B champagne with brown and taupe tonal embroidery
- Size: Tag size not visible in the photographs; measurements available on request
- Construction: Reversible satin-on-satin body; raglan sleeves; reversible metal zipper; welt-style hand pockets on both faces; rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband; contrasting piping and panels; back and chest embroidery on both faces; lightweight, apparently unpadded
Condition
- Vintage pre-owned condition with natural signs of age, handling, storage and previous wear; no catastrophic tears or major missing embroidered sections are visible in the photographs.
- Satin creasing and directional sheen, gentle surface variation and minor age-related textile marks.
- Possible light toning to the sleeves; natural puckering around the embroidery and small embroidery irregularities.
- Softening of the rib-knit trim, minor thread fuzzing and light wear around edges and openings.
- The Wheels back embroidery remains vivid and highly legible; the twin women, skulls, smoke, wheels and blue demon retain strong color definition, and the tonal tiger embroidery keeps its textured relief.
- The rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband are present, and the reversible zipper and both wearable faces are shown.
- Satin reflects light differently from each angle, so some apparent tonal changes may be reflections while others may be genuine signs of age; the photographs form an essential part of this record.
Sizing Guidance
Exact flat measurements and a visible size label are not part of the current photographs; measurements can be provided on request. Tailor Toyo jackets of this kind use a compact souvenir-jacket cut with raglan sleeves, a gathered waistband and a comparatively short body, so fit depends on chest width, raglan sleeve length, body length, shoulder build and layering. Compare the figures with a bomber that already fits comfortably.
Display and Storage
- A broad padded hanger preserves the raglan shoulder shape and prevents stress around the collar; store inside a breathable garment cover, away from prolonged sunlight, smoke, high humidity and compression.
- Specialist cleaning for vintage embroidered satin is advised: no machine washing, soaking, bleaching, scrubbing, wringing or tumble drying, and no direct ironing over embroidery, satin panels, ribbing, zipper, piping or pocket trim.
- Keep clear of rough bags, exposed hooks, jewelry, abrasive walls and hook-and-loop fasteners; when reversing, support the body and sleeves evenly rather than forcing the sleeves through the cuffs.
Authenticity & Care
Tailor Toyo model TT11510, the Wheels and gold tiger configuration documented in Japanese collector records as a polyester reversible sukajan of circa 2008. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally.
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Yokosuka Archive
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