Yohji Yamamoto 1990s Silk Kimono Maxi Coat with Koi and Wave Motif, Black, Size S, Made in Japan

A floor-sweeping coat of black silk cut on kimono lines, with leaping koi and curling waves drawn in pale line work around the hem, from the decade in which Yamamoto turned openly towards Japanese dress.

The Piece

Through the 1980s Yohji Yamamoto was known for black that refused ornament. In the mid-1990s that changed: his women's collections began to draw directly on the kimono, on yuzen dyeing and on the graphic language of Edo textiles, while keeping his own proportions and his insistence on black. Pieces from this period sit in museum collections and rarely appear outside private wardrobes; this coat is attributed to that era.

The coat is cut from 100% silk with a cupro lining and a broad, open shawl front that falls straight to the ankle. Sleeves are short and wide in the kimono manner, with a softly dropped shoulder line. The decoration is concentrated at the hem and the lower front panels, where koi rise through stylised waves drawn in white and dove grey, the line work as fine as an ink brush. A slit at the elbow seam shows the grey lining when the arm moves.

The coat is shown with a cream wool knit layer beneath it, which the previous owner describes as a removable liner; the inside carries the Yohji Yamamoto signature label, Made in Japan, size S, with product code FV-D46-881 on the composition tag.

On the body it reads less like outerwear than like a garment for an occasion: it falls in long columns, the silk moving with every step, the motif revealed only as the front opens. Worn over black, it is pure Yamamoto; worn over ivory, as photographed, it becomes almost ceremonial.

Details

• Designer: Yohji Yamamoto (women's line)
• Season: Attributed to the mid-1990s
• Model / ref: FV-D46-881
• Material: 100% silk; 100% cupro lining; wool knit layer
• Colour: Black with white and grey koi and wave motif
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: S
• Measurements: Shoulder 70 cm (kimono drop) · Chest (pit to pit) 60 cm · Sleeve 34 cm (centre back to cuff 70 cm) · Length 128 cm
• Included: Coat with knit layer as photographed

Condition

• Very good condition with little visible sign of wear.
• Silk is clean and the motif crisp, with no visible fading.
• Lining and labels intact.
• Light storage creasing consistent with age.

Condition grade A on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean only, keep away from direct sun and perfume, and store hanging in a breathable cotton cover.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

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