Undercover AW2004 'But Beautiful' Lambskin Rider Jacket, Anne-Valérie Dupond Season, Distressed Black, Women's S

The original women's leather rider from Undercover's Autumn/Winter 2004 collection, But Beautiful... Part Parasitic Part Stuffed, inspired by Anne-Valérie Dupond's stitched fabric sculptures.

The Piece

Autumn/Winter 2004 is one of the seasons that made Jun Takahashi's reputation. Titled But Beautiful... Part Parasitic Part Stuffed, it took its cue from the French artist Anne-Valérie Dupond, whose stuffed and stitched textile figures appear to be stitched together from many lives. The collection's clothes carry that idea in their linings, patches and hand-finished surfaces, and the leather rider is its most sought-after piece.

This is the women's original, reference B45-B7, in lambskin that has been dyed and treated to look decades old: dark blue-black, cracked and lightened at every edge. The cut is a classic two-row asymmetric rider with zipped pockets, a coin pocket studded around its flap, and a studded belt at the hem. The epaulettes carry tiny jewelled studs in red and green beside domed pearl snaps.

Inside is where the theme comes alive. The body is lined in red tartan flannel, and underarm gussets are pieced from polka-dot and floral cotton, like patches on a stuffed toy. Zipped cuffs open onto more studs and printed cotton. The labels reference the Dupond inspiration and the AW2004 theme directly.

A men's model and a 2016 reissue also exist, but this is the 2004 women's version with details not found elsewhere. It is generously cut for a women's S and may suit a slender man.

Details

• Designer: Jun Takahashi for Undercover
• Season: Autumn/Winter 2004, But Beautiful... Part Parasitic Part Stuffed
• Model / ref: B45-B7
• Material: Shell 100% lambskin; lining partly 100% cotton (tartan, polka-dot and floral)
• Colour: Distressed blue-black; red tartan lining
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: S (women's)
• Measurements: Shoulder 38 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 42 cm · Length 54 cm
• Included: Garment only

Condition

• Good pre-owned condition; the leather was distressed and dyed by design.
• Some additional light scuffing, minor discolouration and small marks from wear.
• No major tears or damage.
• Zips, snaps, studs and belt complete.

Condition grade B on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Condition the leather sparingly with a neutral cream and hang on a broad hanger; the finish is designed to keep ageing.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

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