Original Sole

Definition

Original Sole is the house name for a family of soles, not for a single shoe. The upper changes from canvas court shoe to leather low-top to boot; the sole is the constant. It is moulded in one piece, with a wavering edge, a slightly uneven top line where it meets the upper, and a surface that reads as hand-worked rather than machine-cut. Collectors and shops often call these shoes simply "Miharas", and the sole is the reason.

Origin

Mihara Yasuhiro was born in Nagasaki in 1972 and entered the textile programme at Tama Art University in Tokyo in 1993. While still a student he began making shoes from scrap materials and discarded leather, selling them under the name Archi Doom from 1996, and he renamed the label after himself in 1997, the year he graduated. Shoes were therefore the beginning of the house, long before the clothing lines that followed in Paris from 2007.

The Original Sole came much later. In the designer's own account the shape was first modelled in clay and then scanned so that it could be moulded, and production began in 2019. One magazine described the Peterson OG of that year as a court shoe with a clay-like sole that looks as though it had been melted in a microwave. The joke is deliberate: a factory product made to look like a single, imperfect handmade object.

Key facts

How to identify it

  • The edge. The side wall of the sole rises and falls; no two points along it are quite the same height. A perfectly even, straight-cut sole is not an Original Sole.
  • The top line. Where the sole meets the upper, the line wanders. On genuine pairs it is clean and deliberate despite the irregular shape.
  • The style code. Maison Mihara Yasuhiro footwear carries a style code on the box and inside the shoe, such as A06FW736 or C13FW701; in our handling, the code is the quickest way to confirm the model and season.
  • The upper. Peterson models follow a classic court-shoe form; other models use leather, suede or collaboration fabrics. Read the upper together with the code.
  • Wear. The sole is rubber and wears at the heel like any other. Wear is graded on the house scale explained below, not treated as a fault.

Two confusions are common. The first is to assume that every Maison Mihara Yasuhiro shoe sits on the Original Sole; the house has also made more conventional soles, including creepers under its General Scale line. The second is to call any chunky sole a melted sole. The test is the hand-modelled irregularity, not the thickness.

Where it appears in the collection

The house holds several Original Sole pairs at any time. A Peterson low-top on the Original Sole in black leather, A06FW736, shows the sole under a smooth upper, and a Peterson OG collaboration with Amiri, C13FW701, shows how other labels have borrowed it. For contrast, a General Scale suede creeper sits on a different sole altogether.

The full history is told in our guide to the Maison Mihara Yasuhiro melted sole, and the clothing is set out in our collector's guide to the house. Every pair is graded on the letters explained in our guide to Japanese condition ranks, and the whole house sits on our Maison Mihara Yasuhiro shelf.

Related entries

Sources

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