The Fendi Baguette: The Bag Carried Under the Arm
In 1997, Silvia Venturini Fendi designed a small, flat bag with a short strap, meant to be carried snugly under the arm, the way Parisians carry a baguette. The Baguette was an instant success and is often called the first modern it-bag. Its extraordinary variety of materials and decoration has made it one of the most rewarding bags to collect.
A bag of a thousand faces
From the start, the Baguette was produced in an enormous range of versions: plain leather, the house's double-F canvas, denim, fur, embroidery, beading, sequins and appliqué. Some were made in very small numbers, and many vintage versions have never been reissued. The classic clasp bears the interlocking double F designed for the house by Karl Lagerfeld in the 1960s.
A star on screen
The Baguette's fame grew when it appeared in a much-quoted scene of a hit television series around the turn of the millennium. Demand soared, and the bag became a symbol of the era's fashion. Fendi revived it in 2019, and since then both vintage and new versions have been in demand.
What collectors seek
- Embellished versions. Beaded, sequinned and embroidered Baguettes of the late 1990s and early 2000s, especially rarer designs.
- Unusual materials. Exotic skins, fur and novelty fabrics.
- Classic canvas. Double-F canvas Baguettes with leather trim remain popular and easy to wear.
- Completeness. Dust bags, cards and original packaging add value.
Buying with confidence
- Check the interior label and any serial tag against known examples from the same period. Details changed over the years.
- Look at the clasp and hardware, which should be well finished and evenly plated.
- On canvas bags, the pattern should be straight and symmetrical across seams.
- Beads and sequins should be secure, with no loose threads or missing sections.
Condition
Small bags carried under the arm show wear on corners, piping and the strap. Embellished versions can lose beads or sequins, and fabric can fade. Ask for close photographs of corners, the clasp and the interior, and store the bag stuffed lightly with tissue in its dust bag.