The Dior Saddle Bag: From Galliano to Revival
Some bags define a moment. Dior's Saddle bag, kidney-shaped and hung with a dangling D, is a portrait of fashion at the turn of the millennium. Out of favour for years, it returned in 2018 and is now collected in both its original and revived forms. Japan's pre-owned market holds many early examples, often kept with their dust bags.
The original, 2000
John Galliano introduced the Saddle bag in his Spring and Summer 2000 collection for Christian Dior. Its curved shape echoed a riding saddle, and its hardware, a metal D and a stirrup-like CD charm, sat on the flap. Galliano and his team produced it in an extraordinary range of finishes: the Dior monogram canvas known as Trotter, denim, leather, embroidered and printed editions, rasta stripes and seasonal novelties.
The revival, 2018
Under Maria Grazia Chiuri, Dior brought the Saddle back in 2018, slightly reworked, with a wide embroidered strap option and new materials. The revival introduced the design to a new generation and lifted interest in the originals.
What collectors look for
- Early editions: the original Galliano-era bags in Trotter canvas, denim and seasonal prints.
- Unusual finishes: embroidered, beaded and limited-run versions command premiums.
- Condition of the curve: the shape should be smooth, without crushing or deep creases.
What to check before buying
- The metal D and CD charm: firmly attached, plating intact.
- The strap attachment points, which carry the weight.
- Corners and the lower curve for rubbing.
- Interior stamps and production code, and the condition of the lining.
- For canvas versions, colour fading on the side that faced the light.
Questions collectors ask
Is a Galliano-era Saddle worth more than a new one?
Rare original finishes in good condition can exceed current retail. Common versions are valued on condition.
Can a crushed Saddle bag be reshaped?
Light creases can be eased by careful stuffing over time. Deep creases in leather are permanent.
How should I store one?
Stuffed lightly with acid-free tissue to hold the curve, in a cotton dust bag, away from light. Read our care guide for vintage canvas bags; the principles are the same.