Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme AW1994 Marionette Period Striped Wool Long Coat, Multicolour, Size L, Vintage

A peak-lapel overcoat woven in bold vertical bands of raspberry, cobalt and lime, from the mid-1990s Pour Homme period remembered for its puppet-theatre proportions.

The Piece

Yohji Yamamoto's Pour Homme collections of the mid-1990s broke with the black that had defined him, bringing in costume-like colour and exaggerated, almost doll-like silhouettes. Japanese collectors call this the marionette period, and its pieces were later reissued in the Replica programme because demand never faded. This coat is attributed to Autumn/Winter 1994.

It is cut from a heavy, hand-woven-looking 100% wool in wide vertical stripes of raspberry, cobalt and lime, each band textured with a contrasting basketweave fleck in orange or pink. The shape is a long single-breasted overcoat with broad peak lapels, two buttons, flap pockets, four-button cuffs and a back vent, lined in pale grey cupro. Stripes are carefully matched across the lapels and sleeves.

The interior carries the early grey Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme label, size L, made in Japan, with product code HV-C09-148.

It wears as a substantial, slightly long overcoat with a natural shoulder and room for a jacket beneath. With black underneath, it is an event in itself; with grey flannel and a white shirt, it reads as a collector's piece worn with confidence. Coats from this period in such clean condition are seldom seen, since most were worn hard through the decade that followed.

Details

• Designer: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme
• Season: Attributed to Autumn/Winter 1994
• Model / ref: HV-C09-148
• Material: 100% wool; 100% cupro lining
• Colour: Raspberry, cobalt and lime stripes
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: L
• Measurements: Shoulder 50 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 60 cm · Sleeve 66 cm · Length 120 cm
• Included: Coat only

Condition

• Near new condition with no visible wear, stains or damage.
• Light surface fuzz natural to the wool.
• Lining and labels intact.
• Buttons complete.

Condition grade A on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean only with a specialist familiar with Japanese designer tailoring, and store on a broad wooden hanger with room to breathe.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

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