Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme
Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme AW1991 Tokyo Rose Shirt by Saeko Tsuemura, Pale Yellow, Size M, Archive
Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme AW1991 Tokyo Rose Shirt by Saeko Tsuemura, Pale Yellow, Size M, Archive
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One of the most recognisable images in the Pour Homme archive: a Showa-era beauty with a red rose in her hair, framed by a red circle and the words TOKYO ROSE, printed across the back of an oversized shirt.
The Piece
Autumn/Winter 1991 is a cornerstone season for collectors of Yohji Yamamoto menswear, and its Tokyo Rose shirt is the piece most associated with it. The illustration, by the artist Saeko Tsuemura, draws on Japanese poster art of the 1930s: a woman with a sleek bob, red lips and a rose tucked behind her ear, resting her chin on her hands within a vermilion ring. The name recalls the wartime radio voice of Tokyo Rose, a knowing, slightly provocative choice for a menswear shirt.
The shirt itself is cut in the generous Pour Homme proportion of the early 1990s: a long, straight body with side vents, a single flap pocket at the chest, a point collar and broad dropped shoulders. The cloth is a fine pale yellow, almost buttermilk, and the portrait shows faintly through to the front, a lovely effect in daylight.
The neck carries the early Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme signature label, size M. The printing on the composition tag has faded and is no longer legible.
It wears long and loose, tucked into wide pleated trousers or worn open over a black tee. As with most surviving examples, it shows its age honestly, which is part of its appeal to collectors of early 1990s Yamamoto.
Details
- Designer: Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme, illustration by Saeko Tsuemura
- Season: Autumn/Winter 1991
- Model / ref: Tokyo Rose long-sleeve shirt
- Material: Cotton-type shirting (composition tag faded)
- Colour: Pale yellow with printed portrait in black, pink and vermilion
- Made in: Japan
- Tagged size: M
- Measurements: Shoulder 56 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 69 cm · Sleeve 61 cm · Length 94 cm
- Included: Shirt only
Condition
- Vintage condition with visible use.
- Yellowing at the collar and both cuffs.
- A stain to the lower front.
- Fraying to the back neck label.
- The printed portrait is complete and strong in colour.
Condition grade B on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.
Authenticity & Care
The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Hand wash cold or have it cleaned by a specialist in vintage garments; dry flat away from sun to protect the print.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally. Pieces over $1,000 may be reserved over several payments with Layaway Privilege™.
Continue browsing: Japan Luxury Archive · Yohji Yamamoto
Early-nineties graphic menswear
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