Yohji Yamamoto 1990s Black Gabardine Full-Zip Maxi Coat with Kimono Floral Sleeves, Size S, Made in Japan

Signature black wool gabardine, a plain shirt collar and a long industrial zip, interrupted only by sleeves of red, cream and gold kimono florals, a quiet collision of Paris tailoring and Japanese dress.

The Piece

In the mid-1990s Yohji Yamamoto's women's collections began to quote the kimono directly, setting the patterns of furisode and yuzen against his own black. It was a turn that surprised critics who had known him only for austerity, and it produced some of the most collected pieces of his career. This coat is attributed to that period.

The body is cut from the black wool gabardine that has been Yamamoto's foundation cloth since the beginning, here 93% wool with 7% nylon for drape and recovery. It falls straight to the ankle from a small pointed collar, closed by a single long zip from neck to hem, with no other hardware to distract. The sleeves are wide, kimono-length and made from a printed contrast fabric of nadeshiko flowers, waves, shells and geometric bands in vermilion, cream, black and gold.

The composition tag carries product code FV-D40-853 and the Yohji Yamamoto signature label sits at the neck; the coat is tagged S and made in Japan. A sister piece in the same code family, a silk koi coat, came from the same wardrobe.

Worn closed, it is a black column with flashes of colour as the arms move; worn open over black trousers, the sleeves become the whole story. The cut is generous through the body, so it suits a wide range of frames despite the S tag.

Details

• Designer: Yohji Yamamoto (women's line)
• Season: Attributed to the mid-1990s
• Model / ref: FV-D40-853
• Material: 93% wool, 7% nylon gabardine; contrast sleeves 100% polyester
• Colour: Black with red, cream and gold floral sleeves
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: S
• Measurements: Shoulder 69 cm (dropped) · Chest (pit to pit) 66 cm · Sleeve 43 cm · Length 121 cm
• Included: Coat only

Condition

• Very good condition with little visible sign of wear.
• Gabardine retains its depth of black and a clean surface.
• Printed sleeves are bright with no visible fading.
• Zip runs smoothly; labels intact.

Condition grade A on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean only with a specialist familiar with Japanese designer tailoring, and store on a broad wooden hanger with room to breathe.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

Collectors also search: yohji yamamoto kimono sleeve coat · yohji yamamoto gabardine maxi coat · yohji yamamoto 90s coat · yohji yamamoto yuzen coat · vintage yohji yamamoto zip coat · yohji yamamoto floral sleeve coat · yohji yamamoto archive womenswear · yohji yamamoto japanese pattern coat