SCRIPT Hanatabi Gakudan Maki-Ryū Coiling Dragon Reversible Rayon Sukajan, Black & Antique Silver, Size XL

This is the kind of sukajan that does not merely decorate the wearer; it circles them. Hanatabi Gakudan's celebrated 巻龍 Maki-Ryū, or Coiling Dragon, envelops black rayon satin in dense silver-grey embroidery: two dragons guarding the chest, their bodies twisting down the sleeves, and a third coiling across the back.

The Piece

The principal face is a black rayon-satin body with muted plum-charcoal sleeves. Two immense dragons emerge symmetrically across the front, heads confronting over the zipper with mouths open, whiskers extended and clawed forelimbs reaching inward; zipped, they form a near-symmetrical confrontation, worn open they separate and move with the body in a more fragmented, tattoo-like effect. Their scaled bodies coil outward over the shoulders and descend both arms, interrupted only by contrasting satin sections and smaller cloud and wave forms, a continuation that demands careful alignment across curved panels and is among the design's most impressive technical features. Originally positioned among the label's most embroidery-intensive designs, the jacket treats the entire garment as one continuous embroidered field rather than isolated chest and back emblems.

The back dragon is the central masterpiece. Its serpentine body turns through an almost complete circle, filling nearly the entire black panel without lettering or scenery; the head descends toward the left while the tail curves beneath in a tightly controlled spiral, claws extended and whiskers sweeping across the satin. Dense rows of scales create a metallic rhythm, and the pale underside, darker outlines and lavender-grey shading give depth within a palette confined largely to silver, ash grey, pale lavender, charcoal and black. Under soft light the dragons appear as pale forms moving through smoke; under direct light individual scales, claws and faces become sharply visible. The plum sleeves introduce color without disturbing the monochrome architecture, and matching plum and black stripes through collar, cuffs and waistband frame the animated embroidery.

Reversed, the jacket becomes a quieter black-and-antique-silver blouson: antique-silver jacquard woven with small repeating ornamental forms covers the body, black sleeves and shoulder sections give contrast, and narrow racing-style silver stripes travel from the neckline along the arms. This face keeps finished exterior seams, functional welt pockets, zipper access and plum-and-black rib trim, a complete wearable alternative when the full dragon face feels too commanding, with only glimpses of the embroidery at collar and zipper. Rayon gives a liquid drape and changing sheen, black areas reading matte from one angle and reflective from another, the plum sleeves moving between brown, charcoal and violet.

The dragon has long occupied East Asian painting, textiles, metalwork and decorative art, associated with elemental force, transformation, rain, water, power and good fortune; on a sukajan its long body follows the garment around shoulders, sleeves and back, here suggesting concentrated energy rather than uncontrolled violence. The all-over placement recalls the compositional logic of Japanese full-body tattooing, large central imagery on the back, mirrored guardians at the chest, secondary sections down the arms, so the garment reads almost like an embroidered bodysuit. Its black, silver and bruised-plum palette carries the cinematic atmosphere collectors associate with yakuza-style and irezumi-inspired fashion, neo-noir outerwear and underground Tokyo style; these terms describe a visual language only, and the jacket is a Japanese fashion garment with no claimed connection to any organization. It pairs with black denim, wide charcoal, leather or dark cargo trousers, plain black or white T-shirts, turtlenecks, combat or engineer boots, high-top sneakers, silver jewelry, minimal Japanese designer clothing, and neo-noir or visual-kei styling. The back stands alone as an embroidered textile composition, while on a garment form the sleeve dragons reveal the full wraparound concept.

Hanatabi Gakudan, written 花旅楽団 and loosely translated as "Flower Journey Troupe," became known through its Script line for transforming traditional Japanese motifs into elaborate contemporary sukajan; its maker describes concentrating on wagara sukajan since its founding, with more than 150 jacket designs and a reputation for intricate embroidery, discharge printing and motifs that cross garment seams. This is a contemporary archive sukajan rather than an original postwar souvenir jacket: the design belongs to the modern Script catalogue and has appeared in later archives and revival selections, its computerized embroidery placing it in twenty-first-century Japanese fashion. The scarce XL size, restrained black-and-silver palette and unusually complete embroidery coverage make it particularly attractive to collectors seeking something darker and more mature than standard novelty sukajan.

Details

• Maker: Hanatabi Gakudan, Script line
• Model: 巻龍, Maki-Ryū (Coiling Dragon / Wrapped Dragon); measurements align with the published SSJ-017 XL reference
• Era: Contemporary archive production
• Material: Rayon satin and rayon jacquard; embroidery thread; rib-knit trim; metal zipper; woven pocket fabric; reinforcement beneath major embroidered areas
• Color: Black, charcoal, muted plum and antique silver
• Size: XL (tag; the dimensions note reads L-XL)
• Measurements: Approximate, flat: chest width, armpit to armpit, 61 cm / 24.0 in · Chest circumference approx. 122 cm / 48.0 in · Body length 64 cm / 25.2 in · Sleeve, center back neck to cuff, 91 cm / 35.8 in
• Construction: Reversible; raglan sleeves; full-length reversible metal zipper; angled welt pockets with contrasting trim on both faces; striped rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband; embroidery on front, sleeves and back, crossing multiple panels
• Gender: Unisex

Condition

• Excellent pre-owned condition with limited visible evidence of wear: lightly used, with embroidery in good condition and no damage that interferes with wear.
• Natural folding and storage creases in the rayon; light rippling or puckering around densely embroidered sections, a normal result of heavy embroidery on a fluid woven surface.
• Minor surface variation from the reflective satin and subtle tonal variation between satin panels; occasional fine or raised embroidery fibers.
• Gentle wear around the rib-knit edges and light handling wear around the zipper and pocket openings.
• The dragon embroidery remains vivid, dense and substantially complete; zipper, pockets, reversible construction and ribbed trim are present. No major tear, large stain or significant missing embroidery is apparent in the photographs.

Fit and Handling

The jacket combines the traditional sukajan broad chest, raglan shoulders and comparatively compact body length. It may wear relaxed on many Western medium frames, regular to slightly fitted on many Western large frames and compact on some Western XL frames; actual measurements should take precedence over the tagged conversion. Handle it as a textile artwork rather than machine-wash outerwear, with professional specialist cleaning when necessary.

Authenticity & Care

Japanese documentation accompanying the jacket identifies it as a Hanatabi Gakudan Script reversible dragon sukajan in black and silver, size XL, rayon, with very limited signs of use, recording 61 cm chest, 64 cm length and 91 cm sleeve. The sleeve is slightly longer than the general maker reference for the SSJ-017 XL. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

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