Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 Root Beer, 1970, Matte Brown Nipple Dial, 14K Gold and Steel, Jubilee 62523

A 1970 Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3 'Root Beer' with the first-generation matte brown nipple dial, its velvet-like surface prized above later gloss service dials. Serviced and regulated, on a Jubilee 62523 bracelet with almost no stretch, it is an early two-tone GMT of real character and structural integrity.

The Piece

Among the icons of Rolex's golden era, few carry the warmth of the GMT-Master 1675/3 Root Beer. Produced from the late 1960s into the 1970s, its early matte brown 'nipple dial' configuration, with a velvet-like surface texture, is widely regarded as one of the rarest and most desirable variants. The GMT-Master itself is a product of the Jet Age, a tool watch for global pilots reimagined here through two-tone luxury.

This 1970 example has the true first-generation matte brown dial, a finish found only on early Root Beers; unlike later gloss service dials, it shows depth, richness and a soft, diffused luster that evolves over time. The gilt-framed nipple indices, correct for the period, retain their original tritium plots with gentle patina, matched by natural aging on the hour hand. The minute hand shows lume loss, a trait commonly accepted on early tritium Rolex and consistent with the watch's untouched character.

The bi-metal 24-hour bezel keeps its original two-tone brown insert, with period-correct wear and light flaking, within a 14K gold bezel ring showing only minor marks. The stainless steel case is strong, with well-preserved lug shape, no major impacts and natural polish traces. The Jubilee bracelet, Ref. 62523 with FF450 endlinks, is exceptionally well maintained and almost free of stretch, a rarity at this age.

The Cal. 1575 (1570 GMT), one of Rolex's most respected movements, has been freshly serviced, lubricated and regulated, and runs at +10 seconds per day with an amplitude of 267°. All components are verified genuine.

Details

• Maker: Rolex
• Model: GMT-Master 'Root Beer'
• Reference: 1675/3
• Era: 1970
• Material: Stainless steel and 14K yellow gold
• Measurements: Case 40mm · Lug-to-lug 44mm · Wrist fit up to approx. 185mm
• Included: None (watch only)
• Dial: Original matte brown nipple dial with gilt-framed tritium indices
• Hands: Tritium; lume loss on the minute hand
• Bezel: 14K gold ring with brown two-tone 24-hour insert
• Bracelet: Rolex Jubilee Ref. 62523 with FF450 endlinks
• Movement: Cal. 1575 (1570 GMT), automatic; serviced
• Functions: GMT, time, date

Condition

Japonista grade A · Excellent, with minimal signs of handling.

• Grade A, excellent vintage: strong preservation with small, period-correct aging traits.
• Dial: original early-generation matte brown with a beautiful velvet finish; a tiny flake at 6 o'clock; no major scratches and no oil stains.
• Hands: tritium patinated; notable lume loss on the minute hand; hour and GMT hands excellent.
• Bezel: 14K bezel ring with light marks only; brown insert with visible vintage flaking.
• Case: sharp shape, no major dents, light polish traces and excellent structural integrity.
• Bracelet (62523, FF450): almost no stretch, no dents or deep scratches; exceptional for its age.
• Crystal: light aging marks with clear visibility.
• Movement: Cal. 1575 (1570 GMT) serviced, lubricated and regulated; +10s/day, amplitude 267°; fully functional.

Authenticity & Care

All parts verified genuine, including the original matte brown dial, the 14K bezel ring and the Jubilee 62523 bracelet with FF450 endlinks. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

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