Reversible Chōchō Butterfly & Kiku Chrysanthemum Sukajan, Petrol-Teal Satin, Lavender Jacquard Reverse

Oversized butterflies sweep through a garden of chrysanthemums on the petrol-teal face of this reversible sukajan, trailing long ivory flight lines across front and back. The reverse retreats into lavender and ivory jacquard, where a tonal landscape appears only as the fabric catches the light.

The Piece

The principal face combines a petrol-teal satin body, shifting toward blue-green, smoky turquoise, dark cyan and slate in changing light, with soft champagne-silver satin sleeves. Two large butterflies dominate the back: the upper left in pale blue, lavender, purple, ivory, orange, coral, crimson and soft pink, the lower right turning the other way in lavender, white, orange-red, rose and deep violet. Their wings are built in layered fields with scalloped edges and white dots, the directional stitching following each curve. On the front one butterfly spreads across the left chest and another occupies the lower right, a deliberately asymmetrical layout that carries across the zipper when the jacket is closed.

Long ivory and pale-gray trails loop behind the butterflies, to be read as air currents, ribbon streamers or mizuhiki-like cords, leaving the teal ground open between denser passages. Large kiku-inspired chrysanthemums with long radiating petals in ivory, pale lavender, coral, muted red and soft gray cluster at the upper right shoulder and neckline and along the lower back, continuing over the front; olive, beige, taupe and antique-gold leaves with individually articulated veins bind the composition. Dark brocade-like bands with metallic-looking wave curls, foliage and fine linework run from the shoulders down the sleeves, and the ribbing is striped in muted blue, gray, ivory and lavender.

The reverse is a lavender or mauve jacquard body with ivory jacquard sleeves, its tonal woven imagery suggesting trees, foliage, architectural forms, bridges or pavilions and distant landscape: almost plain from one angle, clear from another. The dark sleeve bands remain visible on this side, and the striped ribbing is shared by both faces.

Butterflies (chō, chōchō) are associated with transformation, renewal and the passage of the soul, and paired butterflies may suggest companionship or marital happiness; the chrysanthemum (kiku) speaks of longevity, endurance and dignified beauty, here as a botanical motif rather than an institutional emblem. Just as the butterfly changes form, the jacket turns from an embroidered garden into a quiet woven landscape. Its oversized botanical embroidery, palette and reversible jacquard construction are consistent with Japanese sukajan of the 2000s to early 2010s.

Details

• Era: 2000s to early 2010s (stylistic assessment)
• Material: Satin-finish textile; jacquard textile; embroidery thread; metallic brocade; ribbed knit; metal zipper
• Color: Petrol-teal body with champagne-silver sleeves / lavender jacquard body with ivory jacquard sleeves. Palette: petrol teal, blue-green, champagne silver, lavender, violet, ivory, coral, orange, crimson, pink, pale blue, olive, antique gold, charcoal, metallic gray
• Construction: Fully reversible; raglan-style sleeves; central metal zipper; angled welt pockets; striped rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband
• Motifs: Butterflies (chō / chōchō), chrysanthemums (kiku), curling flight trails, flowering branches, leaves, ornamental textile bands, tonal landscape jacquard

Condition

• Vintage pre-owned condition with visible creasing, satin rippling, tonal variation, embroidery-related puckering, ribbing wear and age-appropriate handling or storage character; the butterfly and chrysanthemum imagery remains strong and the reverse retains substantial woven detail.
• The teal satin shows natural folds, pressure lines and directional sheen, with localized rippling around the dense butterflies, flowers and trails.
• The champagne-silver sleeves show visible creasing, uneven sheen, gentle age toning and areas of darker or warmer surface variation.
• The butterfly and chrysanthemum embroidery remains clearly defined and substantially intact; minor raised fibers, isolated loose thread ends, soft edge wear or small irregularities may be present.
• The dark sleeve bands remain coherent, with natural creasing, surface variation and light wear.
• The lavender jacquard body shows creasing, changes in sheen and areas of tonal darkening; the ivory jacquard sleeves show natural wrinkling, gentle discoloration and reflective variation, with the woven pattern still visible.
• The ribbing is present and cohesive, with normal softening, waviness, light pilling, mild stretching and tonal variation.
• The metal zipper and lower fastening components are present; body panels, raglan seams, cuffs, waistband, pocket openings and jacquard sections appear structurally complete, with no major tear, missing panel or extensive embroidery loss visible in the photographs.

Preservation Notes

• Professional dry cleaning by a specialist in embroidered satin, jacquard, metallic brocade, ribbed knit and reversible garments; never machine wash, soak, bleach, scrub, wring or tumble dry.
• Do not iron over the butterflies, chrysanthemums, leaves or trails, and do not rub or brush the metallic sleeve bands.
• Avoid aggressive spot cleaning on the lavender and ivory jacquard.
• Keep the satin clear of hook-and-loop fasteners, rough bags, sharp jewelry and exposed hardware; do not carry the jacket by the collar, cuffs or waistband.
• Align the zipper carefully and never force the slider; reverse the jacket slowly, supporting the body and sleeves.
• Store on a broad padded hanger under a breathable cover, away from sunlight, humidity, smoke, perfume, dust and compression, and alternate the displayed face during long display.

Authenticity & Care

Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

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