Rainbow Country G-1 55J14 L.W. Foster Reproduction, Dark Seal Goatskin, Mouton Collar, U.S.N. Stencil, Size 42

A Rainbow Country G-1 on the Navy's 55J14 specification, labelled for L. W. Foster Sportswear, in dark seal goatskin with a mouton collar stencilled 'U.S.N.' and a Conmar zip, tried on only.

The G-1 and specification 55J14

The Navy's leather flight jacket began with the M-422 of 1940 and passed through the wartime AN-J-3a. In October 1947 the Navy issued its own specification, 55J14, amended in 1949, which was the first to name the jacket 'G-1 Flight Jacket' on its label. L. W. Foster Sportswear was among its makers, alongside Burjac, Star Sportswear and A. Pritzker & Sons, and it went on to make G-1s under the MIL-J-7823 specification of the 1950s.

These were the jackets of the first jet generation and of the Korean War carriers, and the stencilled 'U.S.N.' on the collar underside was a common practical mark. The G-1 remains in service with Navy and Marine aviators today, which makes it the longest-lived leather flight jacket in American service.

The Piece

This is a reproduction by Rainbow Country, a Japanese maker known for its Navy jackets, style 55J14. The woven label reads 'BuAer U.S. Navy, G-1 Flight Jacket, Spec. 55J14 (AER), Contract No. N-383s-10427, L. W. Foster Sportswear Co., Inc.', size 42.

The shell is a dark seal goatskin with a strong pebble grain and a good sheen, with a full golden-brown mouton collar, a collar strap, button-flap patch pockets, a bi-swing back with action pleats and a satin-like brown lining. The underside of the collar is stencilled 'U.S.N.' in white, and the front closes on a Conmar zip.

The waistband is a double-layer knit rather than the single layer of the originals, a practical change by the maker that keeps the hem from stretching out as G-1 waistbands so often do; the owner reports that later production returned to a single layer, which makes this double-knit version a short run.

Tried on at home only, from a non-smoking, pet-free home, with tags. It is effectively new.

Details

• Maker: Rainbow Country, Japan
• Model / ref: G-1 55J14, double-knit waistband version
• Label: BuAer U.S. Navy G-1 · Spec. 55J14 (AER) · Contract N-383s-10427 · L. W. Foster Sportswear Co., Inc.
• Material: Goatskin; mouton collar; Conmar zip
• Colour: Dark seal brown
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: 42
• Measurements: Shoulder 47 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 56 cm · Sleeve 59 cm (excluding knit) · Length 66 cm (including knit)
• Included: Tags

Condition

• Tried on only; effectively unworn
• Leather, collar and stencil as new
• Knits firm
• Non-smoking, pet-free home

Condition grade S on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Hang on a broad shoulder hanger, brush the mouton collar gently, and condition the goatskin sparingly with a neutral cream.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

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