Junya Watanabe Black Fancy Tweed Coat, Pleated Fan Back and Panelled Skirt, Gold Crest Buttons, Size XS

A black bouclé-tweed coat by Junya Watanabe in which a classic collared jacket opens into knife-pleated panels and a flaring, layered skirt, fastened with gilt crest buttons.

The Piece

Junya Watanabe has long played with the codes of Parisian tailoring, in particular the textured fancy tweed jacket with gilt buttons, and pulled them into his own architectural world. This coat is a fine example: the upper body reads as an elegant collared tweed jacket, but everything below the waist, and much of the back, has been reengineered.

The fabric is a black slubbed bouclé tweed in a cotton, nylon, acrylic and rayon blend, flecked with fine glinting threads. A pointed collar and a single row of gold crest buttons run down the front, with three matching buttons at each cuff. Large panels pleated like a folding fan rise from the shoulders and fall down the back, and the skirt flares out in tiers of deep pleats to a long, uneven hem. Raw tweed edges add softness to the strict structure.

It is lined in polyester, labelled Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons, size XS, and made in Japan. The fabric weight makes it a three-season coat rather than a deep-winter one.

The shoulders and body are slim, while the pleats give volume and movement as you walk. Over a black dress or slim trousers and flat boots it has a quietly dramatic presence.

Details

• Designer: Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons
• Season: Not dated on available labels
• Model / ref: Not recorded
• Material: Cotton 58%, nylon 24%, acrylic 11%, rayon 7%; lining polyester 100%
• Colour: Black with metallic fleck, gold buttons
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: XS
• Measurements: Chest (pit to pit) 48.5 cm · Centre back to cuff 77 cm · Length 105 cm
• Included: Coat only

Condition

• Pre-owned in very good condition.
• Tweed surface and pleats intact; light natural fluffing to the bouclé.
• All buttons present.
• No stains or holes noted.

Condition grade A on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean only, and hang on a shaped hanger with room around it to keep the pleats crisp.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

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