Issey Miyake 1983 Linen Military Shirt Jacket, Sculptural Dolman Cut, Early Red Label, Brown and Grey, Size 9
Issey Miyake 1983 Linen Military Shirt Jacket, Sculptural Dolman Cut, Early Red Label, Brown and Grey, Size 9
- Dispatch
- Prepared and sent from Tokyo within 7–14 days, often sooner, or as arranged
- Arrival
- United States · usually 4–7 days after dispatch, insured and tracked
- Import
Duties and customs · View the estimate
A guide for this piece: about $169, based on the 10% US charge on the declared value of goods made in Japan.
The final figure is set by US Customs and depends on where the piece was made and the kind of object it is. Many antiques over a century old carry no ordinary duty; most jewellery and leather goods add a single-digit rate.
With EMS, any charge is collected by your postal service on delivery. For pieces of significant value we can often arrange duties prepaid before dispatch.
How the estimate is reached · Ask for a figure on this piece
- Sizing
- Measured flat by hand, pit to pit and length, in centimetres · Find your size · Ask before you buy
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- Within one Tokyo business day · Ask the curator team
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- Authenticity guaranteed · How we grade
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A 1983 Issey Miyake shirt jacket in pure linen that reimagines military utility as sculpture, with a buttoned stand collar, deep dolman sleeves and an open-weave back panel, under the early red label.
The Piece
By 1983 Issey Miyake had become one of the defining voices of Japanese fashion in Paris, alongside Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto. His approach was to begin with cloth and the space around the body, and to borrow from utilitarian garments, workwear, uniforms and the kimono, while dissolving their rigid lines. Early pieces with the red square Issey Miyake label are especially valued by collectors.
This jacket, reference JF31283, is dated by its code to 1983. It is cut in 100% linen in a deep brown, with military details softened into something quite different: a high stand collar that buttons across with a tab, a concealed front placket, a welt chest pocket and flapped lower pockets set into the curve of the body. The sleeves are cut in one with the body in a broad dolman shape, gathering into buttoned cuffs, which gives the jacket the rounded, enveloping silhouette Japanese collectors nickname ika, the squid. Across the back a panel of grey open-weave linen contrasts with the brown, and the inside seams are bound in olive tape.
Size 9 is generous, with 69 cm across the chest and an 81 cm length, so it wears oversized on most frames.
Linen makes it a perfect light layer from spring to autumn, over a T-shirt or a fine knit, with wide trousers.
Details
- Designer: Issey Miyake
- Season: 1983 (by reference code)
- Model / ref: JF31283
- Material: 100% linen
- Colour: Brown with grey open-weave back panel
- Made in: Japan
- Tagged size: 9
- Measurements: Chest (pit to pit) 69 cm · Sleeve (centre back to cuff) 70.5 cm · Length 81 cm
- Included: Jacket only
Condition
- Good vintage condition for its age.
- A little fraying at the lower right pocket.
- A few thread pulls on the back, left side and lower centre.
- Labels intact and legible.
Condition grade AB on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.
Authenticity & Care
The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean, or hand wash cold with care, and press damp on a medium heat.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.
Every figure above is taken by hand with the garment laid flat, in centimetres. Lay a shirt or jacket you already love beside them and allow a centimetre or two of margin, the quiet safeguard on a final sale. Our size guide to tops and jackets turns pit-to-pit figures into US, UK, EU and Japanese sizes, and for anything it leaves open the curator team replies within one Tokyo business day.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally. Pieces over $1,000 may be reserved over several payments with Layaway Privilege™.
Continue browsing: Japan Luxury Archive · Issey Miyake
Formative Paris years
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