Issey Miyake 1980s Brush Tag Wool Boucle Jacket with Piped Seams, Navy, Size 9

A 1980s Issey Miyake jacket from the brush-script label era, cut wide and collarless in a curly navy wool boucle with sculptural piped seams running from shoulder to hem.

The Piece

Issey Miyake's work of the 1980s, identified by the hand-brushed signature on its labels, is the period collectors return to most. Before Pleats Please, the house built garments around 'a piece of cloth', letting generous volumes and unusual textiles shape the body. Pieces from these years are now held in museum collections and sought by archive buyers worldwide.

This jacket, model MN34073, is made from a deeply textured wool and cotton boucle in navy. It is collarless with a soft V neck, closes with two horn-effect buttons, and has buttoned cuffs. Its defining feature is the set of raised, navy-bound seams that curve from the shoulders down the front and back, giving the cloth a carved, almost architectural quality. The edges are bound to match, and the body is lined in navy.

Size 9 here is a Japanese size, but the cut is generous: 54 cm across the shoulder and 60 cm across the chest, with a cropped 59 cm length and a dropped shoulder. It can be worn by men and women alike as a loose, boxy overshirt-jacket.

Wear it over a simple knit or a white shirt and let the texture and seams carry the look; it is as distinctive now as it was four decades ago.

Details

• Designer: Issey Miyake
• Season: 1980s (brush-script label era)
• Model / ref: MN34073
• Material: 65% wool, 35% cotton
• Colour: Navy
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: 9 (Japanese sizing; fits generously)
• Measurements: Shoulder 54 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 60 cm · Sleeve 51 cm · Length 59 cm
• Included: No accessories

Condition

• Good vintage condition for its age.
• Some soiling to the cuffs, the bound piping and the lining (photographed).
• Boucle texture full, with no holes observed.
• Buttons original and secure.

Condition grade B on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean only, and store folded to protect the shape of the boucle.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

Every figure above is taken by hand with the garment laid flat, in centimetres. Lay a shirt or jacket you already love beside them and allow a centimetre or two of margin, the quiet safeguard on a final sale. Our size guide to tops and jackets turns pit-to-pit figures into US, UK, EU and Japanese sizes, and for anything it leaves open the curator team replies within one Tokyo business day.

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