Hublot MDM Skeleton Ref. 1512.3 in 18K Yellow Gold, Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21 Manual-Wind Vintage Watch

Before the Big Bang, there was this: an early Hublot in solid 18K yellow gold, opened to reveal the remarkably slim Frédéric Piguet Calibre 21 within. Ref. 1512.3 captures a restrained, experimental chapter of the house, already rooted in its defining fusion of precious metal and black rubber.

The Piece

The Hublot most collectors recognize today is muscular, layered and extroverted. Ref. 1512.3 speaks in an earlier vocabulary. Long before oversized cases defined the brand, the manufacture was exploring an unconventional idea: combine precious metal with an industrial material and let the tension between the two become the design itself. Here the 18K yellow gold case meets not the leather strap of classical Swiss luxury but a stark black rubber strap; gold brings warmth and permanence, rubber modernity and practicality.

The conventional dial has largely disappeared, replaced by an elaborate openworked composition in which the mechanics become the centerpiece. Golden skeletonized structures frame exposed wheels, jewels and movement components, while a restrained Roman numeral chapter ring preserves classical order at the perimeter. The result is ornate yet disciplined, traditional yet experimental.

Inside is the Frédéric Piguet Calibre 21, an exceptionally slim manually wound Swiss movement operating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, admired from the dial side and through the exhibition caseback. The proportions are notably restrained by later Hublot standards: approximately 36.6 mm across excluding the crown, approximately 34.0 mm across the case body excluding lugs, and only 7.1 mm thick. Rather than dominating the wrist through scale, the watch draws attention through detail, texture and mechanical intricacy.

The black Hublot rubber strap provides the visual counterweight to the gold, and the matching deployant clasp preserves the metal-and-rubber language for which the house became known. Additional Hublot rubber strap sections are included for fit and long-term ownership, and the watch has been overhauled, recording approximately +10 seconds per day in the flat position at the time of testing.

For the collector, Ref. 1512.3 is a window into early Hublot. The essential ingredients are already present: precious metal, rubber, visible hardware, open mechanics and an eagerness to question what a luxury watch was supposed to look like. Only the scale of the idea would change.

Details

• Maker: Hublot
• Model: MDM Skeleton
• Reference: 1512.3
• Line: MDM
• Origin: Switzerland
• Material: Solid K18 / 18K yellow gold case
• Dial: Gold-tone skeletonized openworked display with Roman numeral chapter ring
• Movement: Mechanical, manual winding; Frédéric Piguet Cal. 21; hours and minutes; 21,600 vph
• Caseback: Exhibition caseback
• Strap: Original Hublot black rubber strap with matching deployant (folding) clasp
• Measurements: Case width approx. 36.6 mm excluding crown · Case dimension approx. 34.0 mm excluding lugs · Thickness approx. 7.1 mm · Total weight approx. 67.1 g · Maximum wrist size approx. 17.3 cm
• Service: Overhauled / serviced; approx. +10 sec/day in flat-position testing
• Included: Box; additional Hublot rubber strap sections

Condition

• Very good vintage, pre-owned condition: light signs of age and previous enjoyment, with an exceptionally strong overall presentation, attractive gold surfaces and a striking openworked display.
• Case: the 18K yellow gold presents attractively, with light surface hairlines, fine scratches and handling marks consistent with careful previous ownership; the broad bezel, curved case profile and strap interfaces remain well defined.
• Skeleton display presents beautifully, with golden decorative structures, exposed wheels, jewels and contrasting metallic components creating depth beneath the chapter ring.
• Crystal clear, giving an unobstructed view of the movement; light surface wear may be present consistent with age and use.
• Movement overhauled and serviced, operating at 21,600 vph, with approx. +10 seconds per day recorded in the flat position at the time of testing.
• Original black Hublot rubber strap with matching deployant clasp; additional strap sections included.

Origins of Fusion

Hublot was founded in Switzerland in 1980 and distinguished itself almost immediately by pairing traditional precious-metal cases with black rubber straps, a strikingly modern proposition at a time when luxury watchmaking remained tied to classical materials. That philosophy became the foundation of what the house would later call the Art of Fusion.

The MDM era belongs to this formative chapter. References such as the 1512.3 reveal ideas that would become central to the brand: precious metals set against contemporary materials, visible construction, strong case architecture and an instinct to challenge the boundaries of Swiss luxury watchmaking. The Calibre 21 connection holds particular appeal for mechanically minded collectors, and the design rewards close inspection rather than sheer scale.

Authenticity & Care

Hublot MDM Skeleton reference 1512.3 in K18 yellow gold with Frédéric Piguet Calibre 21, original Hublot rubber strap and deployant clasp, accompanied by its box. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

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