Evisu No.1 Special Lot 1506 First-Type Denim Jacket, Cinch Back, Dark Indigo, Size 36

The Evisu No.1 Special Lot 1506, the top-line version of the house's first-type jacket, in a dark indigo with crisp natural fading at the seams and pocket.

The Piece

Evisu was founded in Osaka in 1991 by Hidehiko Yamane, a tailor and obsessive collector of pre-war American denim, who set out to rebuild the jeans of the 1930s and 1940s on old shuttle looms. Its signature became the seagull, or kamome, hand-painted across the back pockets, and the brush-drawn figure of Ebisu, the god of fishermen and good fortune, who gives the house its name. The No.1 Special sat at the head of the range, cut from its heaviest, most irregular denim and marked with a printed leather patch.

The Lot 1506 follows the earliest denim jacket pattern: pleated front panels with bar-tacks, one flap chest pocket with a small red tab, a buckle cinch at the back and button cuffs. Left unpainted, this one lets the cloth speak, and the denim has a rough, slubby surface that fades in sharp lines along every edge.

The leather patch at the neck reads No.1 Special above the lot number, and the inspection label beneath confirms 100% cotton, made in Japan; the care label carries the line 'design and made only by Yamane'.

Size 36 gives a close, short fit, best for a smaller frame or for anyone who likes a first-type worn snug.

Details

• Designer: Evisu
• Season: Attributed to the late 1990s or 2000s
• Model / ref: No.1 Special Lot 1506 first-type jacket
• Material: 100% cotton denim
• Colour: Dark indigo
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: 36
• Measurements: Shoulder 42 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 48 cm · Sleeve 58 cm · Length 58 cm
• Included: Jacket only

Condition

• Pre-owned in good condition, graded AB.
• Natural fading at seams, pocket flap, cuffs and hem.
• Leather patch printed and intact with light wear.
• Buttons, cinch and stitching sound; no holes seen.

Condition grade AB on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Wash inside out in cold water, sparingly, and dry flat.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

Every figure above is taken by hand with the garment laid flat, in centimetres. Lay a shirt or jacket you already love beside them and allow a centimetre or two of margin, the quiet safeguard on a final sale. Our size guide to tops and jackets turns pit-to-pit figures into US, UK, EU and Japanese sizes, and for anything it leaves open the curator team replies within one Tokyo business day.

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