Comme des Garçons AD1992 Peak Lapel Jacket with Open Back Slit GJ-05016S, Black, Size S

A black Comme des Garçons jacket from 1992 that looks entirely classical from the front, then opens in a long vertical slit down the centre back to the shoulder blades.

The Piece

The early 1990s were a period of austere, intensely black collections for Rei Kawakubo, culminating in the Autumn/Winter 1992 season that collectors associate with her Lilith collection. This jacket carries an AD1992 tag and the GJ code of the main womenswear line, and it shows the quiet subversion of tailoring that defined those years.

From the front it is a sharp three-button jacket with broad peak lapels, flap pockets and covered black buttons. Turn it round and the centre-back seam stops short, leaving a deep open slit from the collar downwards, so the jacket parts as you move. The cloth is a fine, dry black weave with a slight sheen.

The fit is trim and slightly cropped: 38 cm across the shoulder, 47 cm pit to pit and 63.5 cm long. It sits best on a women's small to medium and pairs naturally with a long skirt or wide trousers.

A thin layer underneath, black or white, gives the slit its full effect, framing a vertical line of contrast down the back.

Details

• Designer: Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo)
• Season: 1992 (AD1992), attributed to Autumn/Winter 1992
• Model / ref: GJ-05016S
• Material: See maker's composition label (photographed)
• Colour: Black
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: S
• Measurements: Shoulder 38 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 47 cm · Sleeve 58 cm · Length 63.5 cm
• Included: Jacket only

Condition

• Pre-owned vintage condition, graded AB.
• Some fading of the black at the collar, shoulders, sleeves and hem, visible in strong light.
• A small area of loose stitching at the back body.
• Structure, lining and buttons otherwise sound.

Condition grade AB on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean only; keep away from direct sunlight to protect the black.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

Every figure above is taken by hand with the garment laid flat, in centimetres. Lay a shirt or jacket you already love beside them and allow a centimetre or two of margin, the quiet safeguard on a final sale. Our size guide to tops and jackets turns pit-to-pit figures into US, UK, EU and Japanese sizes, and for anything it leaves open the curator team replies within one Tokyo business day.

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