Comme des Garçons AD1992 Long Rayon Tailcoat Dress with Cap Sleeves, GJ-05019S, Black, Size S

A floor-sweeping black rayon coat from Comme des Garçons, dated AD1992 on its label: cut like a tailcoat, split from the waist, with cap sleeves and a softly creased surface that catches the light.

The Piece

The early 1990s were among Rei Kawakubo's most poetic years, and Autumn/Winter 1992, the season widely known as 'Lilith', is one of the collections museums return to, with examples held in Melbourne and London. Long black layers, unexpected openings and tailoring pulled into new shapes ran through those seasons. This coat is dated AD1992 and is attributed to that period of work; the label does not name a collection.

It is built in 100% rayon with a cupro lining, from the women's main line (product code GJ-05019S). The top half is a fitted jacket with peaked lapels, a breast welt pocket and three buttons; below the waist the fronts fall away in two long panels that part from the last button, so the coat opens like a tailcoat worn back to front. The sleeves are short cap sleeves, and the back hangs in one long column with a deep vent. The rayon has the slight crinkle and sheen typical of Comme des Garçons fabrics of the time.

At 130 cm long it reaches the ankle on most wearers. Tagged S, with a 35.5 cm shoulder and 40 cm chest across the flat, it fits a slim frame. In the photographs it is layered over a white skirt (not included) to show how the split front frames whatever is worn beneath.

Over a slip dress, wide trousers or a long skirt it becomes the outer layer of a whole look. It is equally at home on a wall as in a wardrobe.

Details

• Designer: Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo)
• Season: AD1992 (dated on label); attributed to the Autumn/Winter 1992 period
• Model / ref: GJ-05019S
• Material: Shell 100% rayon; lining 100% cupro
• Colour: Black
• Made in: Japan
• Tagged size: S
• Measurements: Shoulder 35.5 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 40 cm · Sleeve 12.5 cm · Length 130 cm
• Included: Coat only (white skirt shown for styling is not included)

Condition

• Good pre-owned condition for a thirty-year-old rayon garment.
• Fine thread pulls at both cuffs and in several places across the front, typical of this fabric.
• Small pulls in the lining at the lower left front.
• No holes or repairs noted; buttons all present.

Condition grade AB on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Dry clean only with a specialist; rayon should never be washed or tumble dried, and it is best stored on a padded hanger.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

Every figure above is taken by hand with the garment laid flat, in centimetres. Lay a shirt or jacket you already love beside them and allow a centimetre or two of margin, the quiet safeguard on a final sale. Our size guide to tops and jackets turns pit-to-pit figures into US, UK, EU and Japanese sizes, and for anything it leaves open the curator team replies within one Tokyo business day.

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