A Black Dial Suspended in White Gold

A striking vintage Audemars Piguet Cobra in substantial 18K white gold, pairing a deep black twelve-diamond dial with the maison’s sculptural woven bracelet and ultra-thin hand-wound Calibre 2090.

At approximately 82.9 grams, this is not merely a compact dress watch. It is a dense piece of precious-metal architecture built around texture, proportion, and mechanical restraint.

Introduction

The Cobra shows what happens when Audemars Piguet treats the bracelet as part of the watch rather than something attached to it.

Its tightly articulated white-gold links flow directly toward the softly rounded case, producing a continuous metallic surface with an almost textile quality.

At the center, the design suddenly becomes quiet.

A deep black dial is interrupted only by twelve diamond hour markers, slender white-metal hands, and the Audemars Piguet signature.

The contrast is powerful precisely because nothing else competes for attention.

Description

This vintage Audemars Piguet Cobra is executed throughout in 18K white gold, combining a compact case with an integrated woven bracelet that gives the watch considerably greater presence than its dimensions initially suggest.

The case measures approximately 27mm, while the complete watch weighs approximately 82.9 grams.

That combination of compact proportion and substantial weight is central to the character of the Cobra.

The dial is finished in deep black and set with twelve diamond hour markers, each positioned individually around the perimeter. The restrained arrangement allows the diamonds to introduce brilliance without disturbing the simplicity of the composition.

Slender white-metal hands maintain the monochromatic architecture of the watch.

Inside is the Audemars Piguet Calibre 2090, a manually wound mechanical movement with 20 jewels, adjusted for temperature variation and multiple positions.

The Calibre 2090 is particularly well suited to this style of watch. Its slim construction allows the Cobra to retain an elegant profile while preserving the tactile ritual of traditional hand winding.

The integrated bracelet is the defining visual feature.

Hundreds of closely articulated white-gold surfaces create a supple woven texture that bends naturally around the wrist. The bracelet gradually merges into the case, eliminating the conventional visual break between watch head and strap.

The result feels closer to sculptural jewelry than conventional wristwatch construction.

The bracelet accommodates a wrist of approximately 15.5 to 16cm.

For collectors accustomed to Audemars Piguet through the Royal Oak, the Cobra reveals a different lineage entirely: softer in geometry, richer in texture, and deeply connected to the maison’s history of precious-metal jewelry watches.

Highlights & Features

• Vintage Audemars Piguet Cobra
• Solid 18K white-gold construction
• Integrated 18K white-gold bracelet
• Deep black dial
• Twelve diamond hour markers
• Audemars Piguet Calibre 2090
• Manual-winding mechanical movement
• 20-jewel movement
• Adjusted to heat, cold, and multiple positions
• Approx. 27mm case width
• Approx. 82.9g total weight
• Approx. 15.5–16cm wrist fit
• Integrated woven bracelet architecture
• Concealed folding clasp
• Swiss Made
• Strong vintage jewelry-watch character
• Elegant unisex proportions

Item Details

Brand: Audemars Piguet
Collection: Cobra
Case Material: 18K White Gold
Bracelet Material: 18K White Gold
Dial: Black
Hour Markers: 12 Diamond Indexes
Movement: Mechanical Manual Wind
Calibre: Audemars Piguet 2090
Jewels: 20
Case Width: Approx. 27mm
Total Weight: Approx. 82.9g
Wrist Fit: Approx. 15.5–16cm
Clasp: Integrated Folding Clasp
Country of Manufacture: Switzerland
Condition: Vintage / Pre-Owned

Condition Report

Case

The 18K white-gold case retains its softly rounded rectangular architecture and textured exterior finish.

Surface scratches, handling marks, and age-related wear are present consistent with vintage ownership.

Dial

The deep black dial remains visually dramatic, with twelve diamond hour markers providing strong contrast and controlled brilliance.

Light age-related marks are visible under close inspection.

Bracelet

The integrated white-gold bracelet retains its distinctive woven construction and supple articulation.

The numerous textured links continue the case architecture across the wrist and remain one of the strongest aesthetic features of the watch.

Clasp

The folding clasp remains integrated into the bracelet, preserving the continuous appearance of the design when worn.

Movement

The manually wound Audemars Piguet Calibre 2090 is running, with crown and time-setting functions operating.

The movement is engraved for 20 jewels and adjustment to heat, cold, and five positions.

Visible age-related discoloration and oxidation are present within the inner case area surrounding the movement.

Caseback

The interior and exterior case surfaces show vintage wear and age-related marks consistent with previous use.

Overall Condition

Good Vintage / Pre-Owned Condition

The watch retains strong exterior character, a striking black diamond dial, substantial precious-metal weight, and the distinctive integrated bracelet architecture that defines the Cobra.

Why Collectors Want This Piece

This Cobra brings together several of the characteristics that have made vintage Audemars Piguet bracelet watches increasingly interesting to collectors.

First is the material presence.

At approximately 82.9 grams, the watch feels substantial despite its refined 27mm case.

Then comes the visual contrast.

The deep black dial against white gold gives the watch an unusually contemporary appearance, while twelve diamond markers introduce just enough brilliance to signal its jewelry-watch origins.

The Calibre 2090 adds real horological interest.

Its ultra-thin hand-wound architecture reflects the kind of movement construction that allowed Audemars Piguet to create elegant precious-metal watches without sacrificing mechanical sophistication.

And finally, there is the bracelet.

Its woven white-gold construction makes the Cobra instantly recognizable and transforms the entire watch into one continuous object.

Brand Heritage

Founded in Le Brassus in 1875, Audemars Piguet has long occupied a distinctive position within independent Swiss haute horlogerie.

Beyond complicated movements and the Royal Oak, the manufacture created an extraordinary range of precious-metal bracelet watches where mechanical watchmaking and jewelry craftsmanship became inseparable.

The Cobra belongs to this sculptural lineage.

Its tightly integrated bracelet and refined proportions illustrate Audemars Piguet’s long-standing ability to treat the entire wristwatch as a unified design rather than a case and bracelet conceived separately.

Shipping & International Delivery

This high-value precious-metal mechanical watch will be prepared for international transit using secure movement stabilization, bracelet protection, reinforced internal packaging, and protective outer boxing.

Tracked delivery, signature confirmation, and appropriate high-value transit protection are arranged according to destination.

Import duties, customs charges, and local taxes may apply depending on the destination country.

Japonista Concierge

This Audemars Piguet Cobra combines approximately 82.9 grams of 18K white gold with a black twelve-diamond dial, manually wound Calibre 2090, and one of the maison’s most distinctive integrated bracelet designs.

For additional international delivery arrangements, or private acquisition assistance, the Japonista Curation Team welcomes your inquiry.