Japonista
Sukajan reversible de carpas koi y pino, bordado marfil y dorado antiguo sobre satén negro, anverso carmesí acolchado, talla L
Sukajan reversible de carpas koi y pino, bordado marfil y dorado antiguo sobre satén negro, anverso carmesí acolchado, talla L
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A koi climbs diagonally through curling water and pine in ivory, champagne and antique-gold thread, a restrained composition closer to ink painting and tattoo flash than to bright streetwear. Reversed, the jacket turns to quilted crimson satin with champagne sleeves: one face contemplative, the other theatrical.
The Piece
This vintage sukajan is built around one of the most enduring symbols in Japanese visual culture, the koi swimming against the current. The principal black satin side carries a large embroidered koi surrounded by curling water, stylized pine needles and rhythmic wave lines. Ivory, champagne-gold and muted metallic threads create a restrained, near-monochrome composition, with coordinating koi imagery extending across the front and pale rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband.
The koi is set diagonally across the black side, as if climbing through moving water, its scales individually articulated in alternating ivory and antique-gold thread. The koi carp is traditionally associated with perseverance, courage, ambition and transformation; its ability to swim against powerful currents made it an emblem of determined progress and success achieved through adversity. Pine (matsu), an evergreen, speaks of longevity, steadfastness and endurance through difficult seasons, so koi and pine together form a design centered on resilience, strength and continuity.
Reversed, the jacket takes on an entirely different personality: a rich crimson-red quilted satin body with pale champagne-ivory sleeves, mirrored koi and wave embroidery across the chest, red and ivory striped rib-knit finishing and a clean, undecorated back for a quieter alternate look. Hand pockets are functional on both wearable sides. The black face presents the drama of the embroidery, the crimson face a cleaner vintage sportswear appearance, and the soft shine of the satin shifts with the light, bringing out the age-related texture, quilted stitching and dimensional threadwork.
The jacket follows the traditional Yokosuka souvenir-jacket form, with raglan sleeves, a reversible metal zipper, knitted trim and lightweight satin construction. Its construction, quilting, reversible format and embroidery style appear consistent with later twentieth-century Japanese sukajan production, likely late Shōwa to early Heisei, drawing on classic postwar souvenir-jacket vocabulary while using the more expansive koi composition associated with later tattoo-influenced fashion. The restrained coloring distinguishes it from brighter reproduction jackets, and its visible age gives it a presence that newly made pieces cannot easily imitate.
Black side out, it pairs with faded denim, black trousers, engineer boots or minimalist layers; the crimson side suits cream, indigo, charcoal and black, its smaller chest embroidery keeping the reverse balanced. The black, red, ivory and gold palette also works with leather or military trousers, and hung with the embroidered black side outward, the jacket reads as collectible Japanese textile art.
Details
- Era: Later 20th century, likely late Shōwa to early Heisei (assessed)
- Origin: Japan
- Material: Rayon or rayon-blend satin; quilted satin reverse; embroidered threadwork; rib-knit trim; metal zipper
- Color: Black, crimson red, champagne ivory, antique gold and cream
- Size: L (marked)
- Garment: Reversible sukajan / Yokosuka souvenir jacket
- Motifs: Koi carp, pine and stylized water
- Black side: Deep black satin; large full-back koi; pine needle and stylized water motifs; ivory, champagne and antique-gold thread; coordinating koi across the front; pale rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband
- Crimson side: Red quilted satin body; champagne-ivory sleeves; mirrored koi and wave chest embroidery; red and ivory striped rib knit; clean undecorated back
- Construction: Raglan sleeves; reversible metal zipper; functional hand pockets on both sides; classic rounded sukajan silhouette
Condition
- Vintage pre-owned condition with visible age-appropriate character.
- Natural satin creasing, tonal variation, light surface wear and areas of discoloration are present, particularly across the pale sleeves and rib-knit trim.
- The black satin has developed a softly mottled appearance that adds to its vintage atmosphere.
- The embroidery remains bold and visually expressive; the photographs form an essential part of the condition description.
Sizing Guidance
Marked size L. Vintage Japanese sizing can differ from contemporary Western sizing; compare the jacket with a similar one that fits comfortably.
Authenticity & Care
Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally.
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Yokosuka Archive
A particular size, motif or decade in mind? Postwar souvenir jackets and heritage amekaji surface in Japan one at a time. Name the maker, the embroidery and the chest measurement, and the Hunting Salon™ watches for it on your behalf. Request a jacket search →
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