Chaqueta acolchada reversible de seda Cosmos de Hermès, motivo Carré ecuestre y celestial dorado, azul marino, talla 40

Long before scarf-derived jackets became familiar, Hermès quietly re-engineered full carré compositions as reversible padded outerwear. The Cosmos jacket, made in France in the late 1980s to early 1990s, sets gold celestial and equestrian motifs on navy, with silk on both faces and tassel-ended cords.

The Piece

This piece belongs to a short-lived moment when the house began translating its silk carré language into three-dimensional, functional garments, using full silk compositions re-engineered as clothing rather than prints imitating scarves. The Cosmos jacket dates from the Jean-Louis Dumas presidency, when Hermès remained fiercely artisanal, privately held and unconcerned with trend acceleration. Such garments were produced in extremely limited quantities, often sold through select boutiques, and were never intended to become long-term product lines.

The Cosmos motif works on several Hermès registers at once: celestial symbolism of orbital movement, stellar repetition and cosmic order; equestrian logic of circularity, harness geometry and controlled motion; and baroque framing in gold filigree that acts as a visual center of gravity. The composition is disciplined rather than loud. Its symmetry is intentional and its repetition meditative, and in motion the pattern reads differently, as the body becomes part of the orbit.

Silk on both exterior faces is uncommon even by Hermès standards. Cotton padding was chosen for breathability and shape retention, and the reversible engineering is fully finished on both sides, with no wrong side. A drawstring waist, rare on silk jackets, gives functional control of the silhouette, and the tassel cord ends trace a direct lineage to Hermès leather and riding tack.

In the late 1980s and early 1990s pieces like this were worn, traveled in and lived with, and discarded when tastes shifted; most did not survive intact. The jacket predates Margiela's deconstruction, the revival of scarf jackets and archive fashion as status currency. It sits comfortably alongside early Margiela-era Hermès, archive Yohji and Comme des Garçons textile experiments and museum-grade scarf collections, a garment that is rare because the house never repeated the idea.

Details

• Maker: Hermès
• Model: Cosmos (pattern name)
• Era: Late 1980s–early 1990s (Jean-Louis Dumas presidency)
• Origin: France
• Material: Silk outer and reverse; cotton padding
• Color: Navy / deep blue with gold cosmic and equestrian motifs
• Size: Marked 40 (approx. M–L)
• Type: Reversible padded silk blouson / jacket
• Construction: Fully reversible; drawstring waist; tassel cord ends
• Design lineage: Carré silk to experimental outerwear translation

Condition

No specific condition notes or grade are recorded for this example; further condition detail is available on request.

Authenticity & Care

Pattern identified as Cosmos; made in France and marked size 40. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

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