The Rolex Submariner: Seventy Years of the Dive Watch
Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1953, one of the first wristwatches built for divers, with a rotating bezel to time a dive and a case water-resistant to 100 metres. Over seven decades it has become the most recognisable dive watch in the world. Its many references and variations make it a deep and rewarding field for collectors.
The early years
The first Submariners were modest in size, with gilt printing on glossy black dials. A Submariner worn by the screen's most famous secret agent in the early 1960s made it a symbol of adventure. Through the 1960s, Rolex added crown guards, larger cases and greater depth ratings.
References to know
- 5512 and 5513. Long-running no-date models, produced for decades and found in many dial variants.
- 1680. The first Submariner with a date, introduced around 1969. Early dials with the model name printed in red are especially sought after.
- 16610. A modern date model with sapphire crystal, produced for many years.
- Ceramic generation. From 2010, ceramic bezel inserts replaced aluminium. Later models grew slightly in case size.
Special versions
Submariners were issued to military divers, notably for the British armed forces, and made for commercial diving companies with special markings and helium escape features. These versions are rare, frequently imitated and best bought with documentation.
Dial details
- Gilt dials. Gold-coloured printing on glossy black, used until the mid-1960s.
- Matte dials. White printing on matte black, from the later 1960s.
- Tropical dials. Black dials that aged to brown. Admired when even and natural.
- Service dials. Replacement dials fitted during service, which lower the value of vintage watches.
What to check
- Confirm that the reference and serial number fit together. Our guides to reference numbers and serial numbers explain both.
- Look for case polishing, which softens the sharp lines of the lugs.
- Check the bezel insert for fading and confirm it belongs to the period.
- Examine the bracelet for stretch, and confirm the clasp code fits the watch's era.
- Boxes, papers and service records add confidence and value.