Reversible Chōchō Butterfly Sukajan, Chrysanthemum Embroidery on Black Satin, Pink Jacquard Face, Size M

Two gardens in one reversible jacket. Black satin carries oversized chōchō butterflies and tumbling chrysanthemums in jewel-bright thread, while the reverse turns to a pale pink and ivory jacquard of woven trees, rooftops and distant hills, as soft as the lining of an old kimono. Here the sukajan speaks the gentler vocabulary of wagara rather than tiger and dragon.

The Piece

A richly detailed reversible sukajan that trades the traditional tiger-and-dragon vocabulary for something softer, more elegant and wonderfully theatrical. One side is deep black satin covered with oversized butterflies, cascading chrysanthemums and curling floral vines, framed by olive-gold sleeves and ornate woven shoulder bands; the other is a refined blush-pink and ivory jacquard woven with delicate landscapes, trees, traditional architecture and distant scenery. These are two genuinely different personalities rather than a decorated side and a plain lining.

The black side is bold and embroidery-led, butterflies and chrysanthemums flowing across front and back in dense multicolored machine embroidery with raised satin stitching, outlined petals and layered wings; fine pale cords sweep through the composition like wind trails, linking the butterflies across the garment. The reverse uses a tonal woven jacquard rather than a flat synthetic lining: pink central panels and champagne sleeves hold subtle scenes of trees, architecture and landscape that emerge as the fabric catches the light, and decorative shoulder bands add a further layer of woven pattern and an almost kimono-trimmed look along the sleeves.

The butterfly is chō or chōchō in Japanese, the visual heart of the jacket. Butterfly imagery has long appeared on Japanese robes and decorative arts, with associations of beauty, transformation and enduring partnership, while the chrysanthemum traditionally carries longevity, good fortune, refinement and the autumn season. The large scale of the embroidery gives the motifs genuine visual authority, especially across the black satin: graceful without becoming delicate.

Construction, reversible format, decorative intensity and a romantic Y2K palette point to Japanese sukajan of the late 1990s through the 2000s. Unlike military-inspired souvenir jackets, this one leans toward fashion-oriented wagara and kimono-revival styling, suited to collectors of feminine wagara, Japanese textile design, maximalist vintage and unconventional sukajan compositions. Wear the black side with monochrome trousers, boots or a simple dress when the embroidery deserves the spotlight; the pink side pairs with cream, burgundy, charcoal or muted green. Displayed open on a wall or garment stand, one face reads as an embroidered flower garden and the other as a softly woven landscape.

Details

• Era: Late 1990s to 2000s (assessed)
• Material: Satin-finish textile; woven jacquard brocade; embroidered thread; rib-knit trim; metal zipper; synthetic lining textile
• Color: Black, champagne, blush pink, lavender, violet, coral red, blue, silver and olive green
• Size: M (tagged); approximately modern Western S–M
• Garment: Reversible Japanese sukajan / souvenir bomber jacket
• Primary side: Black satin body with champagne-olive sleeves and woven shoulder bands
• Reverse side: Blush-pink and ivory woven jacquard with landscape, tree and architecture patterns
• Motifs: Butterflies, chrysanthemums, foliage, flowing ribbon-like lines and landscape brocade
• Construction: Reversible full-length metal zipper; angled hand pockets on both wearable sides; striped rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband; raglan sleeves

Condition

• Very good vintage condition with natural signs of previous wear.
• The satin and brocade retain their sheen, and the butterfly and chrysanthemum embroidery remains vivid and visually strong.
• Light creasing, gentle handling wear and minor age-related surface variation may be present throughout.
• No major tears, extensive embroidery loss or large areas of visible damage are apparent in the photographs, which form an important part of the condition description.

Sizing Guidance

Tagged M. Japanese vintage sizing often fits more compactly than contemporary Western sizing, and this piece may best suit a modern Western Small to Medium depending on body shape, layering and preferred silhouette. The ribbed waistband creates the characteristic slightly cropped sukajan profile, while the raglan construction allows comfortable movement through the shoulders.

Authenticity & Care

Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

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