Wrangler 111MJ Denim Jacket, Early 1950s First Type, Blue Bell Sanforized Label, Chain-Stitched Name, Size 36

An early Wrangler 111MJ denim jacket with the Blue Bell Wrangler 36 Sanforized label, faded to a pale sky blue, with a hand-embroidered name in looping script across the back.

Blue Bell, Rodeo Ben and the 11MJ

Blue Bell Overall Company of Greensboro, North Carolina, introduced Wrangler in 1947. It recruited Rodeo Ben, the Philadelphia tailor who dressed rodeo stars, to design jeans and jackets that would stand up to the saddle. The first jacket, the 11MJ, was followed by the 111MJ, and both became staples of rodeo riders across America.

Collectors date early Wranglers by their Blue Bell labels, used until the early 1960s, by the Sanforized mark and by construction details. First-type 111MJ jackets in wearable condition are now firmly in the top tier of vintage denim.

The Piece

The 111MJ is the jacket that established Wrangler as Levi's great rival. Blue Bell launched the Wrangler line in 1947 with designs by the Western tailor Rodeo Ben, aimed squarely at working cowboys, and the 111MJ followed as the definitive denim jacket of the range. Early examples, identified as first type by Japanese collectors, are among the most sought-after Western denim jackets of the 1950s.

This one carries the woven Blue Bell Wrangler label with the size 36 and the word Sanforized. The front has the familiar Wrangler architecture: two chest pockets with pointed flaps and snap-button closures, pleated front panels and metal buttons, with adjustable button tabs at the back waist. The denim has faded to a light, even blue with deeper indigo held in the seams.

The jacket has been lived in and personalised. A name, which appears to read Fritz, is hand-stitched in white chain-like script across the back, and further hand stitching appears on the inside front panel, along with an elastic strap added inside. These are the kind of marks that tell a jacket's story.

Size 36: shoulder 44.5 cm, chest 48 cm, sleeve 60 cm, length 57 cm, a modern small.

Details

• Designer: Wrangler (Blue Bell Overall Co.)
• Season: Early 1950s
• Model / ref: 111MJ, first type
• Material: Cotton denim, Sanforized
• Colour: Faded light indigo
• Made in: USA
• Tagged size: 36
• Measurements: Shoulder 44.5 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 48 cm · Sleeve 60 cm · Length 57 cm
• Included: Jacket only

Condition

• General fading, soiling and small rust-coloured marks consistent with age.
• Fraying at the collar, cuffs and hem.
• Hand-stitched name on the back and hand stitching inside; an elastic strap has been added inside.
• Blue Bell label intact and legible; all buttons present.

Condition grade B on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Wash rarely, cold and inside out, and dry flat in the shade; vintage denim is best aired rather than laundered.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

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