Hermès by Martin Margiela Era Black Wool Crewneck Cardigan, Shell-Effect Buttons, Size M

A long, fine-gauge black wool cardigan with a round neck and pale shell-effect buttons, attributed to Martin Margiela’s years at Hermès and cut with the elongated line that defined them.

The Piece

When Martin Margiela designed Hermès womenswear between 1997 and 2003, knitwear was at the heart of his work there. He made cardigans that were longer, softer and more generous than convention allowed, often with small functional surprises, and he treated them as the basis of a wardrobe rather than an accessory to it. These knits are now among the most sought-after pieces of the period.

This cardigan is attributed to those years. It is a fine-gauge pure wool in black, with a neat round neck, a long button placket and pale, shell-effect buttons that catch the light against the dark knit. The body is elongated to sit at the hip, the sleeves are long with deep ribbed cuffs that can be turned back, and small vents are set at the sides of the cuffs. The ‘Hermès Paris’ woven label sits at the neck.

Tagged M, it measures 44 cm across the shoulder, 53 cm across the chest and 58 cm long, with a 72 cm sleeve, so it wears with a slightly relaxed fit and the extra sleeve length typical of the period.

It is the kind of piece that disappears into a wardrobe and then becomes the one worn most: over a shirt, under a coat, or alone with nothing but trousers.

Details

• Designer: Hermès (attributed to the Martin Margiela years, 1997–2003)
• Season: Attributed to 1997–2003
• Model / ref: Crewneck cardigan
• Material: 100% wool; original trim silk
• Colour: Black
• Made in: Not fully legible on label
• Tagged size: M
• Measurements: Shoulder 44 cm · Chest (pit to pit) 53 cm · Sleeve 72 cm · Length 58 cm
• Included: Cardigan only

Condition

• Good pre-owned condition.
• A small silk trim detail at the neckline is missing.
• Light fuzzing to the wool surface in places.
• No other notable damage; buttons all present.

Condition grade AB on the Japanese scale; see Japanese condition ranks, explained.

Authenticity & Care

The labels, materials, stitching, hardware and construction are examined together and documented in Japan before dispatch; anything that cannot be confirmed is stated plainly in the description. Every piece carries the Japonista authenticity guarantee. Hand wash cold with a wool detergent and dry flat, or have it dry cleaned.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Every sale is final; please ask anything before you buy, and see our published policy.

Every figure above is taken by hand with the garment laid flat, in centimetres. Lay a shirt or jacket you already love beside them and allow a centimetre or two of margin, the quiet safeguard on a final sale. Our size guide to tops and jackets turns pit-to-pit figures into US, UK, EU and Japanese sizes, and for anything it leaves open the curator team replies within one Tokyo business day.

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