Japonista
Sukajan reversible Twin Koi, satén escarlata bordado con bambú y montaña, reverso Wagara oscuro, talla M
Sukajan reversible Twin Koi, satén escarlata bordado con bambú y montaña, reverso Wagara oscuro, talla M
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Two large koi swim in opposing directions through ivory currents on the scarlet face of this reversible sukajan, bamboo crossing the field and a distant mountain behind. The embroidery runs across front and back alike, and the reverse answers with a charcoal wagara jacquard of koi, crimson currents and blossoming branches.
The Piece
The principal face is deep scarlet satin, embroidered across both front and back. On the back two koi circle through layered ivory currents, one rising diagonally through the upper field, the other crossing the lower field in the opposite direction. Their bodies are worked in ivory, silver-gray, slate blue, charcoal, navy and pale cream, with individually articulated overlapping scales, long directional fin stitches, enlarged outlined eyes and slightly open mouths. Slender bamboo leaves in olive, dark green, muted gold, cream and charcoal cross the upper left and lower right, and a pale, dark-edged mountain with a softly rounded summit, a generalized landscape rather than one identifiable peak, sets the horizon behind the water.
The scene does not stop at the back. Koi, bamboo, mountain and currents continue across both front panels and over the zipper, forming a near-continuous landscape when the jacket is fastened. The pale sleeves, a pink, silver-gray and cream patterned textile, carry further koi, red water ribbons, dark flowering branches, small blossoms, chrysanthemum-like flowers, pale foliage and rock or tree forms, with narrow red racing panels and dark piping running from shoulder to cuff. The rib-knit is striped red and pink.
The reverse turns charcoal-black: an all-over patterned body, apparently a satin-jacquard or similar woven textile, in which koi emerge from shadow among curling crimson and coral currents, dense pink, coral, white and pale-gray blossoms on dark branches, radiating chrysanthemum-like flowers with greenish or muted-gold centers, and large shadowed tree or rock forms. Pale pink and silver-gray sleeves extend the pattern, and black-and-lavender striped ribbing gives this side a cooler, nocturnal identity. Neither face is an ordinary hidden lining.
Koi, admired for swimming against strong currents, stand for perseverance, resilience and advancement through effort, and through the Dragon Gate legend for transformation; bamboo, which bends without breaking, for flexible strength; the chrysanthemum (kiku) for longevity; sakura for renewal and impermanence; the mountain for permanence beside moving water. Evergreen bamboo, spring blossom and autumn chrysanthemum make the composition cyclical rather than fixed.
The saturated red satin, extensive front-and-back embroidery, all-over patterned reverse, slim athletic sleeve panels and reversible construction are consistent with Japanese sukajan and embroidered streetwear of the 2000s to early 2010s, in the eclectic spirit of Heisei-era fashion.
Details
- Era: 2000s to early 2010s (stylistic assessment)
- Material: Satin-finish textile with embroidery; patterned jacquard reverse; ribbed knit; metal zipper
- Color: Scarlet body with pale pink and silver-gray patterned sleeves / charcoal-black body with pale pink and silver-gray sleeves. Palette: scarlet, crimson, charcoal, pale pink, silver-gray, ivory, cream, slate blue, navy, olive, muted gold, lilac, soft coral, smoky gray
- Size: M (tag); approximately Western XS–S, or a trim S–M
- Construction: Fully reversible; raglan-style sleeves; central reversible metal zipper; angled welt pockets on both faces; striped rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband shared by both faces; decorative racing stripes
- Motifs: Twin koi, flowing water, bamboo, mountain landscape, cherry-blossom-like branches, chrysanthemum-like flowers, rock and tree forms, red stream or cloud ribbons, wagara ornament
Condition
- Vintage pre-owned condition with visible satin creasing, directional sheen, embroidery-related rippling, light textile variation and age-appropriate character from wear, handling and storage; both faces retain strong visual impact.
- The scarlet satin shows natural folds, pressure lines and changes in reflectivity, with localized rippling around the dense koi, bamboo, water and mountain embroidery.
- The koi scale fields, eyes, mouths, fins and contours remain strongly defined; minor raised fibers, isolated loose thread ends, gentle edge wear or small irregularities may be present.
- The water lines remain clearly articulated, and the bamboo retains strong color separation in olive, cream, gold and dark green.
- The patterned sleeves and the charcoal reverse show natural creasing, changes in sheen and gentle surface variation, with their motifs still visible and cohesive.
- The striped ribbing is present and structurally unified, with normal softening, waviness, light pilling, mild stretching and tonal variation.
- The metal zipper and lower fastening components are present; body panels, raglan seams, sleeves, pocket openings, cuffs, waistband and reversible sections appear structurally complete in the photographs, with no obvious major missing panel or extensive embroidery loss.
Fit Guidance
The tagged M generally fits closest to a contemporary Western XS–S, or a close-fitting S–M, depending on chest width, shoulder proportions, arm length, preferred ease and layering. The profile is traditional: raglan shoulders, a compact body, full sleeves, a gathered ribbed waistband and flexible knit cuffs, with some added weight from the reversible build. It sits best over a T-shirt, fitted knit or light shirt, and suits masculine, feminine and gender-neutral styling alike. Additional flat measurements may be requested.
Preservation Notes
- Professional dry cleaning by a specialist in embroidered satin, patterned jacquard, rib-knit trim, metal hardware and reversible garments; never machine wash, soak, bleach, scrub, wring or tumble dry.
- Do not iron over the koi, bamboo, mountain or water lines; steam gently from a distance without saturating the textile or heating embroidery, ribbing, zipper tape or hardware.
- Avoid aggressive spot cleaning on the dark reverse and pale patterned sleeves.
- Keep the satin clear of hook-and-loop fasteners, rough bags, sharp jewelry and exposed hardware; do not carry the jacket by the collar, cuffs or waistband.
- Align the reversible zipper at the lower box and pin before fastening and never force the slider; reverse the jacket slowly, supporting the body and sleeves.
- Store on a broad padded hanger under a breathable cover, away from sunlight, humidity, smoke, perfume, dust and compression, and alternate the displayed face during long display.
Authenticity & Care
Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally.
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