Chaqueta Yokosuka Prince Shokai, bordado de tigre rugiente y bambú, sukajan de terciopelo negro con forro de satén

One of the founding images of the sukajan, a roaring tiger seated on a branch among green bamboo beneath gold Yokosuka script, embroidered by Prince Shokai on deep black velvet. The pile absorbs light so the embroidery rises with theatrical intensity, and the back is signed “by Prince Co.”

The Piece

This commanding vintage Yokosuka jumper by Prince Shokai is constructed in deep black velvet or velour-finish fabric and embroidered with one of the most enduring images in Japanese sukajan culture: a roaring tiger poised on a branch beneath sweeping gold “Yokosuka” lettering. The tiger sits upright, broad-shouldered, mouth open and fangs bared, paws planted side by side, its back rising in a powerful curve and its striped tail sweeping upward along the left of the composition while the head turns sharply left in a roar. Its eyes are sharply focused, the brows angled down, white whiskers fanning from the muzzle; a dramatic white beard frames jaw and chest, and the open mouth shows pointed white fangs, a bright red tongue and a dark interior. The golden-yellow and orange coat is crossed by black stripes that curve around torso, legs, neck and tail, describing volume, and the pale paws carry prominent individual claws. The compact body, enlarged paws and theatrical roar belong to the stylized vocabulary of souvenir-jacket embroidery rather than naturalistic wildlife study, legible at a distance and in motion.

Fresh green bamboo leaves, worked in elongated pointed stitches, emerge around a dark brown branch angled across the lower back. Bamboo bends beneath wind or snow without losing its structure, an emblem of resilience, adaptability, integrity and disciplined growth; the tiger, by contrast, stands for physical power, courage and determination, in broader East Asian symbolism a protective force against harmful influences, and for self-reliance and authority. Seated rather than charging, this tiger suggests power held in reserve. Together the two describe strength that is neither reckless nor fragile. Above, the word “Yokosuka” arches in large, raised golden cursive, almost luminous against the velvet, naming the city whose name became inseparable from the garment; the term sukajan is commonly understood as a shortening of “Yokosuka jumper.” At lower right, a smaller embroidered inscription reads “by Prince Co.,” placed like an artist's signature and connecting the design to the Prince name of the maker attribution.

Across the front, two mirrored tiger heads face inward toward the zipper, with white whiskers, pointed teeth, red tongues, black stripes, golden fur and pale lower jaws clearly articulated at reduced scale, giving the front a crest-like symmetry whether worn open or closed and preparing the eye for the monumental tiger behind. The thread palette of golden yellow, warm orange, white, black, red, brown, green, pale gray and cream is compact yet broad enough to separate fur, stripes, chest, mouth, branch, bamboo and lettering; stitch direction changes across the body so the animal appears rounded, and the white chest and beard use denser radiating stitchwork. Red is concentrated within the open mouths, which become immediate focal points.

The soft black pile sets this jacket apart from the more common satin sukajan. The nap absorbs and redirects light, shifting between deep black, blue-black and charcoal with the angle of view, and, unlike reflective satin, gives the tiger a quiet stage. Its plush surface also connects the jacket with vintage leisurewear, rockabilly jackets, smoking jackets, stage clothing and luxury sportswear. The interior is lined in smooth pale silver-white satin, which reduces friction over shirts and knitwear and helps the shell hold its bomber shape; it is a lining, not a second pictorial face, so this is a single-face, non-reversible sukajan.

The sukajan developed from souvenir jackets associated with Yokosuka and other Japanese port communities after the war, when American bomber and varsity jackets were adapted through Japanese embroidery of tigers, dragons, eagles, Mount Fuji, maps, flowers, insignia and place names, and later entered youth fashion, motorcycle culture, rockabilly, punk, visual-kei, vintage Americana, luxury design and international streetwear. This jacket preserves the classic formula and appears consistent with late 20th- to early 21st-century Japanese production, including the late Showa, Heisei and Y2K-era revival of Yokosuka jumper imagery, made for collectors and fashion wear rather than early postwar souvenir manufacture. The Prince Shokai attribution and embroidered signature distinguish it from unbranded tiger jackets, and its plush black surface and oversized pictorial back resonate with current interest in Y2K Japanese fashion and archive streetwear.

Details

• Maker: Prince Shokai; back embroidery signed “by Prince Co.”
• Era: Late 20th to early 21st century (late Showa, Heisei and Y2K-era revival); undated
• Origin: Japan
• Material: Black velvet or velour-finish pile exterior; pale silver-white satin lining; ribbed knit; embroidery thread; metal zipper
• Color: Black, golden yellow, ivory white, warm orange, red, brown, pale gray and fresh green
• Construction: Single-face embroidered sukajan with satin lining (not reversible); raglan-style shoulders with no conventional shoulder seam through the lettering; low black rib collar with two white stripes; black-and-white striped cuffs and waistband; central metal zipper with dark tape; diagonal welt pockets in matching dark textile
• Motifs: Roaring tiger seated on a branch with bamboo foliage; mirrored tiger heads on the chest; gold “Yokosuka” lettering; “by Prince Co.” script

Condition

• Vintage pre-owned condition with gentle textile variation, velvet nap movement, light creasing and handling character consistent with age and prior wear; the black remains deep in tone, the tiger embroidery vivid and the ribbing clearly contrasted.
• Velvet nap: natural directional variation, with some areas appearing darker, lighter, brushed or slightly flattened; minor pressure marks or temporary changes in pile direction may occur around folds, seams, pockets, sleeves and embroidered areas. This is a characteristic of velvet rather than uniform fading.
• Embroidery: the back tiger, bamboo, branch, Yokosuka lettering and Prince signature remain clearly defined with no major missing portion visible; small thread irregularities, raised fibers or light edge wear may be present. Light rippling may occur where dense embroidery tensions the pile. The chest tigers remain bright, their teeth, mouths, whiskers, brows, stripes and jaws substantially intact.
• Ribbing: present and cohesive, possibly with gentle relaxation, waviness or age-related softening; no major missing section or extensive unraveling visible.
• Lining: present and generally clean in the photographed areas, with natural creasing and light storage folds; minor age-related variation may exist beyond the limited interior view.
• Zipper and pockets: the metal zipper, slider and lower fastening components are present with no major separation visible; the welt pockets are structurally present with no major tearing. Vintage hardware should be handled patiently and not forced.
• No large holes, severe tearing, seam failure, widespread embroidery loss or missing component is visible. The exterior may read as black, blue-black, charcoal or deep midnight depending on pile direction and light.

Fit Guidance

Recommended measuring points: A pit-to-pit chest width; B back length from the base of the collar to the lower waistband; C sleeve length from the collar seam along the upper sleeve to the cuff; D relaxed waistband width; E cuff width or another relevant fit point. Because of the raglan-style construction there is no conventional shoulder seam, so the sleeve is best measured from the base of the collar along the upper arm to the end of the cuff.

Japanese vintage sizing is not directly equivalent to modern Western sizing and varies with production era, silhouette, ribbing tension, body length, sleeve fullness and layering; compare flat measurements with a bomber that already fits. The jacket suits masculine, feminine and gender-neutral wardrobes, worn fitted for a compact sukajan line or looser for contemporary styling.

Styling and Display

Pair with selvedge denim, a plain white T-shirt, engineer boots and a leather belt for Japanese Americana; cuffed jeans, creepers or boots and an open-collar shirt for rockabilly; wide black trousers, washed denim, sneakers or monochrome layers for contemporary streetwear; or leather trousers, heavy boots, silver jewelry and faded black denim for a biker-inspired wardrobe. Under controlled lighting the pile creates deep shadows while the tiger and gold lettering stay sharply lit, suiting editorial photography, live performance, music shoots, visual-kei styling and theatrical wardrobe.

On a broad padded hanger the back functions as an embroidered textile panel, legible across a room in a fashion archive, studio, gallery wall or collector interior.

Preservation Guidance

Professional dry cleaning by a specialist in vintage velvet, embroidery, satin lining and ribbed knit is recommended; do not machine wash, soak, bleach, wring or tumble dry. Never iron the velvet or embroidery directly, as heat and pressure may crush the pile, create shine or flatten raised thread; gentle specialist steaming from a distance may be used without saturating the textile. Temporary pressure marks may relax if the jacket hangs in a dry environment; do not scrub or aggressively brush the pile, and do not pull or cut loose thread ends.

Keep away from hook-and-loop fasteners, rough bags, sharp jewelry, textured walls and abrasive straps; do not carry the jacket by its ribbing; align the zipper carefully and never force the slider. Store on a broad padded hanger in a breathable cover, in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, humidity, smoke, perfume and compression, and rest it periodically in dark storage when displayed. Transit folds should be allowed to relax naturally rather than treated with high heat.

Authenticity & Care

The lower-right back embroidery reads “by Prince Co.,” connecting the design to the Prince Shokai attribution. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.

Delivery from Japan

Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.

Collectors also search: prince shokai tiger sukajan · black velvet sukajan · velvet tiger souvenir jacket · yokosuka jumper tiger bamboo · by prince co sukajan · vintage velvet yokosuka jacket · tiger embroidered bomber japan